Smoked Pork Butt Spicy Apple Compote Spaetzle and Bacon Wrapped Sweet Onion Paired with 2009 Frei Brothers Reserve Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

For the first time, Chef Sue recently prepared smoked pork butt in our beloved smoker located at our secret culinary lair on the Potomac River.  In short, I was delighted.  I was beyond delighted - every tasty morsel was enough to make my eye roll back in my head deliriously.  Most of this delectable treat was donated to a community event, which left me begging for more.  My begging paid off.

Returning to our secret Potomac lair this weekend, Chef Sue put two eight pound pork butts on the smoker.  This is a time consuming process, but well worth the wait.  And like an impending snow storm, the anticipation is a good part of the fun.  Chef Sue's process involves 24 hours of brining, eight hours in the smoker (one hour for each pound) and basting once per hour while smoking.  The result is other-worldly.

Commonly, smoked pork butt is converted to pulled pork for barbecue sandwiches, but I prefer enjoying this wonderfully tender and juicy meat in it's primal smoked form, treating it like any other large cut of meat and carving off large slabs of mouth melting goodness.  Are you getting the hint that I love this stuff?  I do.  I love pork, and it loves me back.

After the prior weekend's experience with Chef Sues smoked pork butt, I was committed to a wine pairing and sharing this porky love fest with you.  The first task was completing the meal.  Chef Sue and I huddled, threw out a few options and eventually settled on adding a touch of piquance and sweetness with an apple compote, spaetzle, and a bacon wrapped baked sweet onion (is it possible to have too much pork? - I don't think so).

Next I moved on to the wine selection.  My thought process started with a medium bodied wine to match the body of the pork, moderate acidity to balance the fat, and prominent fruit (pork and fruit is a natural combination in my mind), and a touch of earthiness or oak to echo the smoke flavor in the pork.  With this criteria in place, I still had the decision of going red or white.  The balance was tipped in favor of a red when I decided to go in the direction of earthy flavors to add depth rather than oak as a direct mirror of the smoked meat.  I settled on the 2009 Frei Brothers Reserve Russian River Valley Pinot Noir.

The wine answered my desires wonderfully with rich flavors of dark berries and plum, moderate acidity, and pleasant earthy notes.  The pairing worked nicely, but I have two minor reservations with the wine.  First, I would have liked a touch more acidity.  The winemaker appears to have sacrificed acidity for a velvety smooth mouth feel.  Second, the alcohol content is high and is not hidden behind the strength of the fruit.  Although the pairing was very good, these two aspects make it less than perfect.  We enjoyed the wine and would buy it again, but with the acidity and alcohol levels, I would not intentionally compose another pairing.

Recipes

Smoked Pork Butt

Ingredients for Brine

• ½ cup coarse salt
• 1 cup cider vinegar
• 1 tablespoon black pepper
• 1 tablespoon cumin
• 4 cloves garlic
• 24 ounces beef broth
• 1 cup brown sugar
• 5 pound bag of ice

Preparation

1. Combine all ingredients in a pot over medium heat and stir until all ingredients are incorporated.
2. Remove from heat and allow to cool.
3. Thoroughly clean a small cooler (small enough so brining liquid covers the meat, yet tall enough to accommodate a 5 pound bag of ice) and add pork butt, pour brining liquid over the pork, then add a 5 pound bag of ice.
4. Keep in cooler for 24 hours.

Ingredients for Basting Liquid

• 1 cup cider vinegar
• ¼ cup balsamic vinegar
• 1 teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon cumin
• ½ tablespoon red pepper flakes
• 1 teaspoon garlic powder

Preparation

1. Combine all ingredients in a bowl and stir.
2. Preheat smoker to 200-225 degrees F.
3. Place pork butt in smoker, fat side up.  Smoking time is 1 hour per pound of meat.
4. Baste the pork but with a clean rag or brush every hour.

Spicy Apple Compote

Ingredients

• 1 apple diced 
• water to cover the apples
• 1 squirt lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• dash of cayenne pepper
• pinch of salt

Preparation

1. Combine all ingredients in a sauce pan over low heat.  Stir occasionally until apple is tender.

Bacon Wrapped Sweet Onions

Ingredients (per serving)

• 1 Vidalia onion
• 2 slices of thick cut bacon
• 1 pad of butter
• salt and pepper to taste

Preparation

1. Peel onion and cut one end to provide a flat surface that lets the onion stand on it’s own.
2. Cut flat the opposite end of the onion, then carve out a small well to hold the pad of butter.  I leave it to you to choose the size of your pad.  I love butter and was generous.
3. Wrap the onion in two strips of thick cut bacon and hold in place with toothpick(s).  Season with salt and pepper.
4. We wrapped the onion in foil and placed in a preheated oven (350 F) for about 30 minutes.
5. Alternatively (and the way we intend to do it next time), place the onions on a broiler pan that should add more texture to the onion.  The process would work equally well on a grill off direct heat.

Spaetzle

Ingredients (per serving)

• 1 cup flour
• 1 egg
• 2 tablespoons water
• 1/4 teaspoon salt

Preparation

1. Mix the dough several minutes until glossy. The dough should be wetter than brownie batter but not as wet as pancake batter.
2. Bring water to boil in a large pot.  Reduce heat so water is just under a boil.
3. Place a portion of the batter on a cutting board (a smooth glass board works best) and spread until about 1/8 to 1/4 inch thickness.
4. Using a pastry knife or other flat edge, scrape off the batter, 1/4 inch or less into the water.
5. Allow to cook until the spaetzle floats.  Remove, keep warm, and repeat with remainder of batter.
6. Alternatively, you can take finished spaetzle, brown in a skillet with butter and finish with cheese.

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig

Apple Cider and White Wine Braised Pork Shoulder Käsespätzle Paired with 2004 Cuvee Jean Baptiste Adam Aslace Kaefferkopf Riesling

This pairing was inspired by my love for German food and a desire to master the art of making spaetzle.  My history of spaetzle consumption includes two forms; spaetzle prepared in a German restaurant, and the mediocre (at best) store-purchased-dehydrated spaetzle.  The difference between the two is akin to the difference between fresh homemade pasta and the stuff in the box on the grocery shelf.

After a bit of research and a couple trial runs, I found that making spaetzle at home is quick, easy, and fun.  Honestly, it is dramatically easier than making fresh pasta.  For this meal, I decided to use the spaetzle in a German casserole called Käsespätzle.  This dish is a traditional German recipe popular for it's ease in preparation, and who can argue with cheese and onions?

To accompany the cheesy spaetzley goodness, I decided to braise a pork shoulder in apple cider and white wine.  Another easy preparation of what I would consider German comfort food.

My pairing selection for our little Germany night began with the idea of a dry Riesling.  As I ventured to the wine cellar and found I had no German Rieslings (they usually don't last long around our house) and found a French Riesling - a 2004 Cuvee Jean Baptiste Adam Aslace Kaefferkopf Riesling.  A French Riesling, why not?  The Germans and French get along well right?

This Riesling met my desires of a dry riesling with healthy acidity and prominent fruit.  Although in general, Rieslings are intended to be consumed young, the acidity and complex structure of this wine revealed beautiful minerality imparted by the granite dominated soil from the region.  Although nearly 8 years old, this wine aged exceptionally well.

In summary, the pairing was spectacular with the fruit, acidity, and minerality complementing the warm tender flavors of the braised pork shoulder and käsespätzle.

Recipes

White Wine and Apple Cider Braised Pork Shoulder

Ingredients

• 1 fresh pork shoulder
• 6 garlic cloves, cut into halves and imbedded in the pork shoulder
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 5 medium onions, halved lengthwise then sliced
• Add equal portions of cider and white wine to bring liquid to about 1 inch below top of pork shoulder
• Salt and pepper

Preparation

1. Preheat oven to 300°F.

2. Score fat and any skin on pork in a crosshatch pattern. Make slits all over meat with a small sharp knife and insert garlic. Pat pork dry and season with salt and pepper.

3. Heat oil in a Dutch oven or heavy pot over moderately high heat then brown meat on all sides.  Remove pork shoulder and set aside.

4. Add onions to pot and sauté over moderately high heat until tender.
5. Add 3/4 teaspoon salt and sauté, stirring occasionally, until onions are caramelized.

6. Deglaze with a cup of cider and return pork to pot.
7. Add a cup of wine, then add equal amounts wine and cider until liquid level is about 1 inch below the top of the pork shoulder.

7. Cover pot and braise pork until very tender - 2 1/2 to 3 hours.

8. Transfer pork to a serving dish and let rest while boiling cooking juices with onions until mixture is reduced by ½.  Adjust seasoning and serve over sliced pork shoulder.

Käsespätzle

Ingredients

Caramelized Onions

• 2 tsp. olive oil (20 ml)
• 1 tsp. butter 9(10 ml)
• 2 medium onions (400 grams) quartered and sliced

Spaetzle (per person)

• 1 cup flour
• 1 egg
•  2 tablespoons water
• 1/4 teaspoon salt

Casserole

• 1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
• 6 oz. Gruyère
• Butter and breadcrumbs for casserole dish

Preparation

1. Start by making the caramelized onions about one hour before the casserole needs to go into the oven. Heat the butter and oil in a non-stick pan on medium, turn heat to low and add onions. Stir every few minutes until onions are lightly browned and sweet enough for your taste. 
2. Turn off heat and set onions aside.
3. Mix the dough several minutes until glossy. The dough should be wetter than brownie batter but not as wet as pancake batter.
4. Dip a wood board into the boiling water, to help the dough slide off when you are making your noodles.  I found using a glass cutting board works better than a "spaetzle board."
5. Spread dough over spaetzle board about 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick.
6. Use a spaetzle knife, scraper, or pastry knife to slide 1/4 inch strips of the dough into the not-quite-boiling water.  A little twist of the rist, and keeping everything wet will aid in the process. 
7. The spaetzle noodles are done when they float to the top.  Ladle the spaetzle from the water and place in a bowl.  Repeat from step 5 until dough is used.
8. Butter and line a casserole dish with bread crumbs.
9. When noodles are done, add them to the pan with the onions. Add the grated nutmeg and 3/4 of the grated cheese and stir to mix.
10. Place noodles into the casserole, sprinkle with remaining cheese and bake, covered, at 350ºF for 20 minutes, then uncovered for 15 minutes. 

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig

I

Hasenpfeffer (Rabbit Stew) Spaetzle and Sautéed Brussel Sprouts Paired with a Disaster

If you are planning a dinner party wine pairing, there are a few keys to making the pairing a success:

1. Prepare a dish you know well or have a recipe from a trusted source.
2. Choose your wine for the pairing based on you knowledge of the wine and the fundamentals of pairing.
3. Alternatively, select your pairing wine based on a trusted source (like this blog).
4. If you are trying a wine you are not familiar with, taste it before you pair – unpleasant surprises at your dinner party means an unwelcome guest.

Last night I prepared a German favorite - hasenpfeffer with spaetzle and garlic sautéed brussel sprouts.  It was wonderful.  Less so, was the wine.  Honestly, the wine was awful.  Over the last few months I have been focusing on locally produced wines.  Principally from Virginia, but also throwing in some Maryland wines. For our hasenpfeffer, I chose a Maryland off dry white with the hoping for a Riesling type flavor profile to stick with the German theme.  To say I was disappointed would be an understatement.

I have a firm policy of not publicly trashing a vineyard or their wines – the guilty will remain unnamed.  The notes from the vineyard include a citrus nose, refreshing, and perfect for pairing with lightly seasoned poultry or fish.  This was not my experience.  The nose was strong and assaulting.  The dominant aroma is akin to pouring a glass of white concord grape juice on steroids.  The flavor precisely echoed the nose.  The wine was cloyingly sweet and unbearable.  I was hoping for a Riesling-like experience but was delivered Welch’s white concord grape juice with 13% alcohol.

Although the wine was abysmal, the rabbit was fantastic!  The spaetzle and garlic sautéed brussel sprouts worked in perfect German harmony and made for a wonderful meal.  Both Chef Sue and I concluded a light to medium bodied red such as a Pinot Noir, or a medium to full bodied white such as a Chardonnay or Viognier would be a good choice.

If you are planning a dinner party, I recommend you follow the rules of thumb I suggested at the top of the post.  If you are just playing in the kitchen and experimenting with wine pairings, don’t be concerned.  Have fun discovering new wines and different combinations.  However, be prepared for the occasional disappointment.

Recipes

Hasenpfeffer

Ingredients

• 1 dressed rabbit cut into serving size pieces
• 1/2 cup flour
• 1/2 pound diced bacon
• 5 diced shallots
• 3 cloves minced garlic
• 1/4 cup gin
• 1 1/2 cups Beef stock
• 1 cup red wine
• 1/2 lemon sliced into 1/4 inch rounds
• 1/4 teaspoon dried rosemary
• 1/8 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1/4 teaspoon allspice
• 2 whole cloves
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tablespoon red currant jelly
• 2 tablespoons softened butter
• 1/4 cup flour
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation

1. Season the rabbit with salt and pepper then toss with flour in a large bowl. Shake off excess flour and set aside.
2. Add the bacon to a medium-large pot over medium-high heat and sauté to render for 3-4 minutes.
3. Add the shallots and garlic and sauté until translucent.
4. Remove the bacon and shallots and reserve for later. Reserve bacon fat in the pot.
5. Brown the rabbit over medium high heat and set aside.
6. Reduce heat to medium, add the gin and reduce by 1/2.
7. Return the rabbit pieces to the pot and add the broth, wine, lemon slices, thyme, rosemary, allspice, cloves, bay leaf, and red currant jelly.
8. Bring to a boil then reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, for 1 hour or until rabbit is tender.
9. Mix the softened butter and 1/4 cup flour until smooth to create a roux.
10. When the rabbit is cooked through and tender, remove it to a serving dish.
11. Strain the sauce through a fine sieve, discarding the solids.
12. Stir the reserved bacon and shallots back into the sauce. Add more stock if necessary to make about 2 cups.
13. Return sauce to a simmer on the stove and whisk a small spoonful of roux into the sauce and return to a simmer. Keep whisking spoonful's of roux into the sauce until depleted.
14. Adjust seasoning, pour the sauce over the rabbit and serve.

Spaetzle

This recipe is presented as “per person”

Ingredients

• 1 cup flour
• 1 egg
• 2 tablespoons water
• 1/4 teaspoon salt

Preparation

1. Mix the dough several minutes until glossy. The dough should be wetter than brownie batter but not as wet as pancake batter.
2. Bring water to boil in a large pot.  Reduce heat so water is just under a boil.
3. Place a portion of the batter on a cutting board (a smooth glass board works best) and spread until about 1/8 to 1/4 inch thickness.
4. Using a pastry knife or other flat edge, scrape off the batter, 1/4 inch or less into the water.
5. Allow to cook until the spaetzle floats.  Remove, keep warm, and repeat with remainder of batter.
6. Alternatively, you can take finished spaetzle, brown in a skillet with butter and finish with cheese.

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig