Venezuelan Hamburger and Cuban Congri Paired with 2010 Aspen Dale Winery at the Barn Sarah Chapeau Virginia Vidal Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Blend

A true Venezuelan hamburger does not exist to my knowledge.  In fact, hamburgers are not very common in Venezuela other than the big chains that export the worst of our U.S. culture to all corners of the world.  Venezuelan’s have plenty of great street/fast food like pepitos, empanadas, and arepas – tough competition for the hamburger (for an arepa and pepito wine paring see my posts Venezuelan Arepas with Reina Pepiada and Pollo Mechado Paired with 2009 Benziger Family Winery Carneros Chardonnay, and Venezuelan Pepito, Guasacaca, Salsa de Ajo Paired with 2009 Clos Du Bois Sonoma Reserve Russian River Valley Chardonnay respectively). So rather than present a Venezuelan hamburger, I will be honest and present you with a Venezuela inspired hamburger.

By the way, for all my Venezuelan friends, if you care to correct me regarding my interpretation of a Venezuela inspired hamburger, I would love to hear from you.  I miss all of you, and your beautiful country (less so el presidente although he made every day an interesting one).

Conceiving of a Venezuelan Hamburger was quite easy.  Venezuelans like beef and pork equally and frequently enjoy both on the grill.  This gives us the first component – a burger made from 50% ground beef and 50% ground pork.  Next we add a slice of deli ham.  I’m not sure why, but just about every type of “fast food” or street food in Venezuela is adorned with a sliver or two of ham.

While not prevalent in all of the country, in the mountainous areas of Venezuela it is common to find a fried egg added to many dishes – particularly sandwiches, arepas, pepitos, and the like.  Finally, we top the burger with a slice of avocado and the ubiquitous Venezuelan salsa de ajo (garlic sauce).

If you follow the news, you know that Venezuela and Cuba enjoy close diplomatic relations.  As a result, the Cuban population in Venezuela has grown dramatically in the last 10 years.  One of the culinary delights that accompany Cubans is congri – seasoned black beans and rice.  If you don’t get excited at the sound of beans and rice, I understand.  However, I promise you that congri is much more than beans and rice.  It is rice and bean heaven!

I chose the 2010 Aspen Dale Winery at the Barn Sarah Chapeau Virginia Vidal Blanc Sauvignon Blanc Blend to for the pairing.  Normally, I would choose a medium to full bodied red to pair with a hamburger.  Routine choices might include a Bordeaux, Merlot, Zinfandel or Syrah depending on the cheese and other toppings.  However, this burger does not require a heavier bodied wine and features much lighter flavors.  First, the 50/50 mix of ground beef and ground pork brighten the patty flavors dramatically compared to an all beef burger.  Second, the choice of ham, fried egg, avocado and salsa de ajo beg for acidity, melon or bright fruit, and a lighter body.

Winemakers notes:  A hint of strawberries and rose petals.  The nose will entwine and tease you.  Flowery fruity yet tangy melon notes laced with a touch of semi-sweetness promises to satisfy your very soul.  To these notes I would add that the wine featured moderate acidity well matched to the food, and a hint of citrus that also worked exceptionally well.

If you live in the DC area, Aspen Dale Winery is just a short drive West on 66.  We had a very pleasant experience in a beautiful setting.  A visit is well worth your time.  I am confident that a visit to the tasting room will bring smiles – and a few bottles of wine for your collection.

Recipes

For the burger, mix 50% ground pork with 50% ground beef.  Prepare as you would any burger.

Salsa de Ajo

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 2 tablespoons minced garlic
• 1 green bell pepper cleaned, deveined and chopped
• 1/2 cup chopped cilantro
• 1/4 of a medium onion chopped
• Salt to taste

Preparation

1. Combine all ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth.

Cuban Congri

Ingredients

• 1 Cup Black Beans
• 2 Cups White Rice
• 5 Cups Water
• 12 ounces of Salt Pork cut into 3/4 inch cubes
• 1/2 Red Pepper chopped
• 1/2 Yellow Pepper chopped
• 1/2 Green Pepper chopped
• 1 1/2 tablespoons minced garlic
• 1 Onion chopped
• 2 Bay leaves
• 2 tablespoons cumin
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• Salt to taste

Preparation

1. Cook black beans in water. I used a pressure cooker with 5 cups of water - it took just 20 minutes.
2. Roughly chop the peppers and onions.
3. Heat olive oil in 4 quart sauce pan over medium high and cook salt pork , stirring occasionally, until pork is golden and crisp.
4. Add onions, bay leaves, bell peppers, garlic and cumin. Sauté over medium-high heat until onion is tender.
5. Add rice and stir in.
6. Add the cooked beans along with the water used to cook them and let sit, do not cover or stir.
7. Continue to cook over medium high heat for 10 minutes.
8. Reduce heat to low, stir, cover and let simmer for 20 minutes. 

Hallacas – A Venezuelan Christmas Tradition

Many countries and regions have a dish that is a source of family, if not national pride.  You know the type – the recipe passed down from generation to generation for which everyone claims to have a secret ingredient or preparation that makes theirs the best you will ever taste.  In Venezuela, it is the hallaca.

The Venezuela national competition for the best hallaca comes every Christmas season.  I still do not understand why hallacas are a traditional Christmas dish – they are sooooooo good I could eat them all year long!  One of the great things about living in Venezuela at Christmas is the wonderful generosity of fun loving Venezuelans.  Much like we in the U.S. deliver plates of cookies and other Christmas treats to friends, coworkers, and neighbors, Venezuelans deliver plates of Hallacas.  I know this is mostly motivated by the giving season, but I am quite sure that some people like to share their hallacas as proof their recipe is the best.  I was always pleased to accommodate.

Unlike Christmas cookies, hallacas require a good deal of effort.  However, the reward when you unfold your steamy plantain leaf to reveal a fresh hallaca is unquestionably worth the effort.

Sorry I did not do a wine pairing.  I planned to, but was a little delayed getting around to making the hallacas (actually, Chef Sue did all the hard work – I just helped with the assembly).  However, I would recommend a Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño, a light bodied Viognier, or a light bodied Chardonnay with good acidity.  Any of these would complement the hallacas nicely.  If you want to be daring and try the contrasting balance approach, a Zinfandel, Syrah, or Malbec could be interesting.

Recipe

Ingredients

Filling

• 1 lb chuck roast cut to less than 1/2 inch cubes
• 1 lb pork cut to less than 1/2 inch cubes
• 1lb shredded roasted chicken
• 1/4 lb bacon cut to 1/2-inch lengths
• 3 seeded tomatoes
• 4 hard boiled eggs halved and thinly sliced
• 1 chopped onion
• 3 cloves garlic
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 2 teaspoons dried marjoram
• 1 medium diced leek
• 1/4 cup capers
• 1 tablespoon mustard
• 1/4 cup red wine vinegar
• 1 diced bell pepper
• 1 teaspoon salsa negra (Worcestershire sauce)
• 1 1/2 tablespoons brown sugar
• salt and pepper , to taste
• 1/2 cup raisins
• Pimento stuffed olives, halved
• Tobasco Sauce

Masa

• 2/3 cup lard (or substitute vegetable shortening)
• 2 cups harina flour (we prefer authentic Venezuelan Harina Pan)
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1 1/3 cups warm water

Preparation

Filling

1. Combine beef, pork, bacon, tomatoes (after pureeing) onion, garlic, salt, marjoram, and leek in a medium sized pot and bring to a boil. Cover, lower heat and simmer until the meat is tender.
2. Add capers, mustard , vinegar, bell pepper, Worcestershire sauce, and sugar. Add Tobasco to taste, and season to taste.
3. Increase the heat and reduce for about ten minutes or until liquid is nearly evaporated.
4. Add raisins and set aside.

Masa

1. Melt 1/3 cup lard over low heat and let simmer for 2 minutes.
2. Whip remaining lard until fluffy and combine with harina, salt, cayenne pepper, and water.
3. Mix in melted lard and form into 24 equally sized balls.

Final Assembly

1. Cut banana or plantain leaves into (24) 8-10 inch squared.
2. Put a ball of masa in the center of each leaf section and press into a square shape about 1/8 inch thick.
3. Top with the meat filling, chicken, eggs, and olives.
4. Fold leaves and press to seal the masa around the filling. Traditionally, the hallacas are now tied with kitchen string, but if you fold and stack carefully, you can skip this step.
5. Stack hallacas in a large pot and steam for one hour and serve. I prefer to garnish my hallaca with salsa de ajo.

Enjoy your hallacas.  Feliz navidad.

Craig

Venezuelan Pepito, Guasacaca, Salsa de Ajo Paired with 2009 Clos Du Bois Sonoma Reserve Russian River Valley Chardonnay

It is Sunday, my beloved Patriots are preparing to humiliate the Cowboys, and I am bringing you another great football food wine pairing.  This is my second pairing of Venezuelan street food and features one of the most popular street food sandwiches in Venezuela.  Next to the arepa (see my prior post “Venezuelan Arepas with Reina Pepiada and Pollo Mechado Paired with 2009 Benziger Family Winery Carneros Chardonnay”) and possibly empanadas, pepitos are the most common and favorite among those who love street food in Venezuela.

With sauces that typically include guasacaca (don’t you just love to say that?) and salsa de ajo (garlic sauce), this famous Venezuelan sandwich is full of well balanced flavor and a clear favorite of late night revelers in Caracas – and everyone in Caracas is a night owl.

Pepitos are constructed with either chicken or steak on a bed of lettuce and diced tomato in a hoagie like roll which is then topped with guasacaca, salsa de ajo, and other sauces such as ketchup and mayonnaise if you care to add them.  Other options include a slice of ham and a fried egg.  I prepared two versions with my favorite ingredients; both with guasacaca (come on, say it three times and smile) and salsa de ajo, one with the ham and egg, and one without.

Chef Sue was the only one in the house with first hand experience of a pepito.  The smile on her face was all I needed to know that I had faithfully recreated our fond adventures in Venezuela.  She was particularly impressed with how well I hit the mark with the guasacaca and salsa de ajo.  Success!

I paired our Venezuelan delight with a 2009 Clos Du Bois Sonoma Reserve Russian River Valley Chardonnay.  We found this wine to offer complex aromas of citrus, pear, and lime with vibrant floral tones. The flavors echoed the aromas nicely with a nice touch of citrus, melon, butter and vanilla.

The pairing was a pleasure.  Who says street food is not up to a good wine pairing?  The 2009 Clos Du Bois Sonoma Reserve Russian River Valley Chardonnay worked particularly well with the chicken and matched the body of the sandwich perfectly.  The citrus flavors complimented the acidity in the guasacaca nicely, and the creamy buttery finish left us hustling for the next delicious bite.

It is early in the day, so I expect you to make a quick trip to the grocery, gather your ingredients, pull a bottle of 2009 Clos Du Bois Sonoma Reserve Russian River Valley Chardonnay off the rack, and settle in to cheer on the Patriots.  You should also repeat the word “guasacaca” a few times and nod your head toward Venezuela in acknowledgement of the creators of this wonderful sandwich.

Finally, I know I have some Venezuelan friends and readers.  I would love to hear from you and your thoughts on this pepito recreation.  I know you prefer a Polarcita and baseball with your pepito, but hey, the wine worked!

Recipes

Guasacaca

Ingredients

• 1 medium onion chopped
• 2 green bell peppers, cleaned, deveined, and chopped 
• 2 ripe avocados
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• 1 cup fresh chopped cilantro
• A third cup white wine vinegar
• 1 cup corn oil
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation

1. Combine all ingredients except the oil in a food processor or blender and blend until smooth.
2. Continue blending and drizzle in the oil until fully combined and smooth.
3. Let stand and serve at room temperature.

Salsa de Ajo

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 2 tablespoons minced garlic
• 1 green bell pepper cleaned, deveined and chopped
• 1/2 cup chopped cilantro
• 1/4 of a medium onion chopped
• Salt to taste

Preparation

1. Combine all ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth
2. Salsa de ajo is best served from a squeeze bottle so you get a nice squiggly line of garlic goodness on top of your pepito.

Pepito

Ingredients

• 4 hoagie-type bread rolls
• 1 pound chicken breast cut in half crosswise then sliced into 1/4 inch strips
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce (also known as salsa negra in Venezuela)
• Salt and pepper
• Shredded lettuce
• 1 diced tomato
• Guasacaca
• Salsa de ajo
• Crushed ruffles potato chips
• Four pieces of thinly sliced sandwich ham (one per sandwich - optional)
• 2 fried eggs per sandwich (optional)

Preparation

1. Over high heat, sauté the chicken until it about half cooked.
2. Add the garlic, soy sauce, and Worcestershire sauce and cook for 2-3 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through.
3. Remove from heat and season with salt and pepper to taste. 
4. Construct the sandwich with a bed of shredded lettuce and tomatoes. Add the chicken and drizzle with guasacaca and salsa de ajo. Top with crushed potato chips. Ruffles with ridges are standard in Venezuela.
5. Optionally, add a slice of thin sliced deli ham and two fried eggs. The hoagie rolls should be long enough to support two eggs.

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig

Venezuelan Arepas with Reina Pepiada and Pollo Mechado Paired with 2009 Benziger Family Winery Carneros Chardonnay

My last assignment in the US Coast Guard was as the Coast Guard Attaché in Venezuela.  I lived in Caracas for three years, travelled throughout Venezuela, and was introduced to a number of great foods.  In general, Venezuelan food is not terribly distinctive (Venezuelans enjoy food from around the world, and like any major metropolitan areas, Caracas features a broad variety of international foods), but there are some real indigenous gems nonetheless.  The best of Venezuelan food comes from the grill (parilla), street food, and special holiday dishes.

The food featured in today’s pairing is a Venezuelan staple – Arepas.  Arepas are the very tasty distant cousin of the hamburger roll (ok, they are not even remotely related, but it is helpful in getting your head around the idea of an arepa).  Arepas are made with corn flower and water, grilled to a slight crisp on the out shell, and cooked through in the oven.  Sliced in half, or slit on one side and opened for stuffing, Arepas are the backbone of Venezuelan street food, and are stuffed with just about anything imaginable.

For this meal, I decided to make two of my favorites for stuffing the arepas; Reina Pepiada and Pollo Mechado.  The easy way to understand reina pepiada is to think of chicken salad with avocados.  The flavor is so intensely satisfying, I am truly surprised I had not experienced this phenomenal combination before living in Venezuela.

Pollo Mechado is similarly simple, and nearly as tasty (just my opinion).  Pollo Mechado is shredded baked (or grilled) chicken which is supported by a sautéed mixture of onions, peppers, and garlic.  The chicken is keeping good company.

Neither the reina pepiada or pollo mechado are particularly strong flavors – think of the warm, pleasant flavors of comfort food – Venezuelan style.  With these mild flavors in mind, I chose the 2009 Benziger Family Carneros Chardonnay with the intent of complimenting the flavors in both arepas while trying to avoid overwhelming them.  The arepas did not require a wine with a high acidity, fruit, or sweetness to form a balance, so I thought the Chardonnay would be a good bet.  And for the record, if you were to do this in true Venezuelan style, the wine would be pushed to the side, and you would open a bien frio polarcita.

The 2009 Benziger Family Carneros Chardonnay is a described by these tasting notes from the Benziger Family Winery:

“Our Carneros Chardonnay is a bright, clean wine with excellent balance of fruit and structure. In this vintage, flavors of ripe peach and pear are followed by notes of soft vanilla. Barrel aging contributes to a round, satisfying mouthfeel with very subtle oak flavor.”

I would have written my own description, but these tasting notes describe it well.  My only additions would be to say that the fruit flavors are moderate, but well balanced with the finishing hints of vanilla.  The oak flavor is similarly subtle and well balanced with the fruit and vanilla flavors.  At $10 per bottle for a wine produced under certified sustainable farming methods, this is an exceptional value.

Chef Sue (my best critic) was extremely happy with both the arepas and the wine.  However, she rated the paring as only “good.”  Chef Sue said she would have preferred something with a bit more acidity, or bolder fruit (or both).  Personally, I was very satisfied with the pairing.  While I will agree with Chef Sue that the wine did not particularly enhance any of the elements of the arepas, I would emphasize that the wine did not overpower or detract from the mild flavors of the arepas.  Too much of anything (acid, fruit, sweetness) could have easily overwhelmed the arepas.

Overall, Chef Sue and I declared the pairing a success, and will certainly be making more gastronomic visits to memory lane in Venezuela.

Recipes

Arepas

Ingredients

• 2 cups pre-cooked cornmeal flour (Harina P.A.N. is the best)
• Pinch of salt
• 2 cups boiling water
• Vegetable oil

Method

1. Preheat oven to 400ºF.
2. In a large bowl, mix together the cornmeal and salt. Pour in the boiling water and mix with a spoon until fully combined and without lumps. If it is too wet and sticks to you fingers, gradually add more flower. If it is too dry, add more water. Cover and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes.
3. Wet your hands and make a ball out of some dough. Press the ball into a patty. The goal is to get a patty that tis 3 to 4 inches in diameter and about 1/2 inch thick. Keeping your hands wet makes the process much easier.
4. Heat a couple tablespoons of vegetable oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Sauté the patties to form a light brown crust and flip to brown the opposite side.
5. When all the patties are browned, transfer them to a sheet pan and bake in the oven for about 20 minutes or until they sound a bit hollow when you tap them.
6. Slice the arepas in half lengthwise, or slit about half way to form a pocket. Scoop out the remaining moist/loose dough in the middle, stuff and serve.

Reina Pepiada

Ingredients

• 1 lb skinless chicken breasts
• 3 avocados (diced)
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 1/2 medium onion diced
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation

1. Preheat oven to 400
2. Season chicken breasts with salt and pepper, place on sheet pan and place in oven for 9 minutes.
3. Turn the chicken and continue in oven for another 9 minutes.
4. Remove the chicken from the oven and allow to cool.
5. When cool enough to handle, shred the chicken breasts.
6. Combine and mix the shredded chicken, avocados, mayonnaise, and onion. Fundamentally, this is chicken salad with the addition of avocados. Feel free to vary the amount of mayonnaise to achieve the consistency you prefer. (Add some cilantro to kick up the flavor a bit – I love it, but it is not authentic Venezuelan)
7. Season to taste and stuff into arepas.

Pollo Mechado

Ingredients

• 1 lb skinless chicken breasts
• 1 medium onion diced
• 1 red bell pepper finely diced
• 1 1/2 tablespoons minced garlic
• 4 tablespoons vegetable oil
• Salt and pepper to taste.

Preparation

1. Preheat oven to 400
2. Season chicken breasts with salt and pepper, place on sheet pan and place in oven for 9 minutes.
3. Turn the chicken and continue in oven for another 9 minutes.
4. Remove the chicken from the oven and allow to cool.
5. When cool enough to handle, shred the chicken breasts.
6. In a sauté pan or skillet, sauté onions, pepper and garlic in two tablespoons of vegetable oil
7. When onions are translucent, add the chicken and two more tablespoons of oil. Reduce heat to medium and continue to sauté for 2 minutes stirring will to combine all ingredients.
8. Season to taste and stuff into arepas.  Top with grated queso quayunes, queso fresco, or other mild/soft white cheese.

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig