Crawfish and Artichoke Heart Ravioli with Wild Mushroom Sauce Paired with 2009 Delaplane Cellars Williams Gap Virginia Red Wine

Seafood equals white wine right?  I don’t think so.  It depends.  Throughout my first career as a Coast Guard officer, I had the pleasure of experiencing several careers within a career.  In other words, although I was a Coast Guard officer, I moved through several professions within the Coast Guard.  At least one of these included training that featured a large poster on the wall that said “it depends.”  The message behind this poster was that there is not a “school book” answer that works in all situations.

This pairing fits squarely in the category of “it depends.”  Successful wine pairing relies primarily on the principal flavors in the dish.  Carrying this a bit further, the principal ingredient, may not be the prominent flavor of the meal.  In the case of this pairing, the dish incorporated two principal flavors - that of the crawfish and artichoke ravioli stuffing and that of the mushroom sauce.

As I selected the wine for the meal, I was betting on the mushroom sauce providing the dominant flavors.  Deep, rich, earthy mushroom sauce layered with the fish velouté.  I guessed correctly and chose a full bodied red to complement the sauce.

Before you rush into this recipe, I need to tell you it is a bit of a challenge.  The challenge does not come so much from technique, but unless you have a container of fish stock lying around and are adept at making fresh pasta, it takes some effort...but well worth it.  The layers of flavor, and ooooh mommy goodness are a great reward for your effort. 

Back to the wine.  I chose a 2009 Delaplane Cellars Williams Gap Virginia Red Wine.  It is a full bodied Bordeaux style blend with 40% Cab Franc, 27% Merlot, 22%, Cabernet Sauvignon, and 11% Petit Verdot.  And guess what, although this is a great wine, I have tasted the 2010 vintage and it gets even better!  The 2009 vintage features deep, rich and velvety flavors of dark cherry and plum along with a welcoming earthiness and a lengthy, satisfying finish.  Exactly what I was looking for to echo the earthy flavors of the mushroom sauce.

I placed my bet on Williams Gap pairing with the mushroom sauce and was rewarded with a spectacular payoff.  I highly recommend the 2009 Delaplane Cellars Williams Gap Virginia Red Wine and this recipe.  You will not be disappointed.  And if you cannot drop in to your local grocery and find crawfish, substitute shrimp.  I’m sure you will have an equally pleasing experience.

Recipes

Ravioli Dough 

Ingredients

• ½ pound Bread flour
• 2 eggs
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• ½ cup chopped cilantro
• 1 chopped Jalapeño pepper
• 1 teaspoon green pepper sauce
• 1 tablespoon red pepper flakes
• Salt to taste

Crawfish-Artichoke Filling

Ingredients

• 1 pound crawfish tail meat
• 1 can artichoke hearts finely chopped
• 1 head roasted garlic
• ½ medium red bell pepper finely chopped
• 1 chopped jalapeño pepper
• 2 finely chopped shallots
• Juice from two lemons
• 3 teaspoons pepper sauce
• 1 teaspoon lemon pepper
• 3 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 1 teaspoon Gumbo file
• 1 teaspoon ground thyme
• 4 finely chopped scallions

Mushroom Sauce

Ingredients

• 1 pound wild mushroom medley (your choice, but I would recommend shiitake, morel, and porcini)
• 2 cups white wine
• 1 cup Fish velouté (see recipe at end)
• 1 cup clam juice
• 1/3 cup cilantro
• 1 tablespoon pepper sauce
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• 4 ounces heavy cream
• 1 pinch cayenne pepper
• 2 ounces butter
• Salt to taste

Preparation

1. To make Ravioli Dough, put the flour in a mound on work surface. Make a well in center and add remaining ingredients. Working from the center out, gradually mix to make a dough. Knead well for 15 minutes and cover with plastic wrap. Let rest 1 hour.
2. To make Crawfish-Artichoke Filling, coarsely chop crawfish. Mix with remaining ingredients, cover and chill for one hour.
3. Roll out the pasta into two thin sheets of equal size. Make small mounds of the crawfish fillings, arranging them in a checkerboard pattern about 1-1/2" to 2" apart. Lay the remaining pasta over the top and press down to seal. Avoid trapping large air bubbles inside. Cut the ravioli with a pastry wheel. Cook in salted boiling water for 3 to 5 minutes. 
4. To make the Wild Mushroom Sauce, cook mushrooms with wine and base for 5 minutes. Add cilantro, Pepper Sauce and velouté and reduce for 1 minute. Add cream, butter, salt and pepper. Remove from heat. 

Fish Velouté

Ingredients

• 6 cups fish stock
• 2 Tbsp clarified butter
• 2 Tbsp all-purpose flour

Preparation

1. Heat the fish stock to a simmer in a medium saucepan, then lower the heat so that the stock just stays hot.
2. Meanwhile, in a separate heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt the clarified butter over a medium heat until it becomes frothy. Don't let it turn brown.
3. With a wooden spoon, stir the flour into the melted butter a little bit at a time, until it is fully incorporated into the butter, giving you a pale-yellow-colored paste (roux). Heat the roux for another minute or so to cook off the taste of raw flour.
4. Using a wire whisk, slowly add the hot fish stock to the roux, whisking vigorously to make sure it is free of lumps.
5. Simmer for about 30 minutes or until the total volume has reduced by about one-third, stirring frequently to make sure the sauce doesn't scorch at the bottom of the pan. Use a ladle to skim off any impurities that rise to the surface.
6. The resulting sauce should be smooth and velvety. If it's too thick, whisk in a bit more hot stock until it's just thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
7. Remove the sauce from the heat. For an extra smooth consistency, carefully pour the sauce through a wire mesh strainer lined with a piece of cheesecloth.
8. Keep the velouté covered until you're ready to use it.

Makes about 1 quart of fish velouté sauce.

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig

Lobster Ravioli with Truffle Mushroom Cream Sauce Paired with 2009 Piedmont Vineyards Special Reserve Virginia Chardonnay

I recently spent the better part of a week in Boston.  Although I was there for business, I was eating my way through Beantown at every opportunity.  I was particularly fortunate to be staying at the Mariner’s Inn in the North End - an Italian neighborhood with dozens of wonderful Italian restaurants.  While walking down Hanover Street grazing through menu after menu of mouth watering delights, I felt I was in Italy – there were equal amounts Italian and English conversations as I strolled along.

Here are just a few of my indulgences while in Boston:

• Wellfleet Oysters at Union Oyster House
• New England clam chowder from Boston Chowda
• More Wellfleet Oysters at The Met Back Bay
• Osso bucco at Mama Marias
• Seafood fra diavolo at Strega
• Veal Marsala at Artu Rosticceria &Trattoria
• Lobster ravioli in a white wine truffle cream sauce at Florentine Café
• Oh, and a couple of cigars at Stanza Dei Sigari

My last meal in Boston was the lobster ravioli from the Florentine Café.  Soon after the meal, I was on the phone with Chef Sue to tell her I just had the best lobster ravioli of my life.  I mentioned that I was inspired and planned to attempt a recreation of the dish.  While my intentions were good and pure, I was stopped short by Chef Sue when she said “I will handle this.”  Chef sue is working hard these days – meaning she needed a day of therapy cooking.  I did not put up a fight.

With only a couple days separation from my wonderful experience at Florentine Café, the memory of flavors still lingered closely.  I tasted Chef Sue’s version and was amazed at how close she matched it – without the benefit of sampling the meal I had enjoyed just three days earlier!  Maybe we can credit my precise and detailed description…or maybe we can just call Chef Sue a kitchen magician.  The only difference I could detect was the slight acidity and fruit added by the wine used in the Florentine Café version.  Chef Sue decided to forego the wine component.

The principle flavors of this dish come from the sweet lobster, and creamy, earthy truffle components of the sauce.  Within the dish, the flavors are very well balanced, allowing each component to bask in the limelight without competing for attention.  Beautiful.

My pairing choice was the 2009 Piedmont Vineyards Special Reserve Virginia Chardonnay.  This wine is a full bodied Chardonnay featuring pronounced butter and healthy oak flavors with a lengthy, and satisfying finish.  This is not a shy wine – it grabs your attention and demands you take another sip to ensure there are no misunderstandings.  For some foods, this wine may not be the best choice given the prominent role of the French Oak.  However, it worked splendidly with the truffle, cream, and sweet lobster flavors of our dish.  The moderate acidity and full body formed a nice balance with our meal.  As we finished, both Chef Sue and I commented that this wine would be spectacular with smoked chicken or smoked fish.

Recipes

Pasta Dough

Ingredients

• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 cups semolina flour
• 1 pinch salt
• 6 large eggs
• 2 tablespoons olive oil

Preparation

1. Add flower to the bowl of your electric mixer (with dough hook)
2. Start the mixer to medium speed and add eggs one at a time.
3. Add olive oil and salt.
4. Let the mixer do it's thing until the dough is smooth, firm and dry. You can adjust the texture with water or the addition of flour.
5. Remove the dough from the mixer, wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Let sit for an hour.

Lobster Ravioli

Ingredients

• 1 lobster (2 to 3 pounds)
• 1 pint half and half
• 1 pound sliced baby portabella mushrooms
• 2 tablespoons white truffle oil
• 1 pound pasta dough
• 1/2 cup ricotta cheese
• Salt and pepper to taste.

Preparation

1. Steam lobster. To steam live lobster, pour about two inches of water in a large pot, add 1 tablespoon of salt for each quart of water (sea salt is best). If you have a steaming rack, use it. Bring the water to a rolling boil and add lobster - head first. Cover and return to a boil as quickly as possible and start counting the time. Here are recommended cooking times:
   • 1-1/4 lbs. 7-8 minutes
   • 1-1/2 lb. 8-10 minutes
   • 2 lbs. 11-12 minutes
   • 2-1/2-3 lb. 12-14 minutes
   • 5 lb. 20-22 minutes

Lobsters are done when the outer shell is bright red and when the meat is white, not opaque. DO NOT overcook your lobsters. Your lobsters will continue to cook a little after you take them out of the pot. To stop the cooking process, place your steamed lobsters in a bowl of ice before cracking. 

1. Reserve one cup of the steaming liquid for use in the sauce.
2. Remove claw and tail meat and cut to bite size pieces. Reserve half of the meat and set aside.  Dice the remaining half, mix with ricotta cheese, and season to taste.
3. Roll out pasta dough and make ravioli from tablespoon of lobster mixture. Cook ravioli for two minutes just before serving.
4. Sauce. Add 1 cup liquid reserved from steaming the lobster to a sauce pan with 1/2 of the sliced mushrooms to the pan. Cook over medium heat for about ten minutes.
5. Add mushrooms and liquid to a blender with 1/2 of the half and half. Blend until smooth. Return to the sauce pan and add remaining half and half, and mushrooms. Simmer, reducing by 1/3.
6. Add truffle oil and reserved lobster meat. Season to taste, and simmer until lobster is warmed through.
7. While simmering sauce, boil ravioli for two minutes, drain and pour sauce mixture over the ravioli when serving.

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig

Fresh Seafood Medley of Cod Fillet, Shrimp, And Bay Scallops in a Turmeric Basil Marinade with Mushroom Risotto and Garlic Sautéed Brussels Sprouts Paired with 2009 Benziger Family Winery Sonoma Coast Wente Clone Chardonnay

Chef Sue and I were recently inspired by Anthony Bourdain (“No Reservations” on the Travel Channel) and Luke’s Lobster (see my recent post “Maine Lobster Roll from Luke’s Lobster Paired with 2008 Ledson Sonoma Coast Tres Frais Chardonnay”).  Let’s start with the Luke’s Lobster part of the inspiration.  In my post featuring a pairing of a Taste of Maine from Luke’s Lobster, I completely gushed about the simple elegance of the lobster roll, shrimp roll, and crab roll.  The application of condiments and flavors supporting the seafood was light handed and clearly designed to let the star of the show stand in the spotlight.  It was simple, and it was spectacular.

Now for the Anthony Bourdain part of the inspiration.  Chef Bourdain produced a series of episodes focusing on the history and future of El Bulli in Costa Brava Spain led by the incredible Chef Ferran Adria.  Chef Adria and his phenomenal work at the culinary Mecca of El Bulli are known for a lot of things – simplicity is not one of them.  With 50 course meals served in “The Best Restaurant in the World” at a meticulous pace and deft sequencing using Chef Adria’s research into molecular gastronomy, El Bulli is anything but simple.

In one of the episodes, Bourdain accompanies Chef Adria to his favorite coastal restaurant that features only seafood served fresh within hours of being caught.  This fresh flavors are further focused by simplicity in preparation with only minimal ingredients – olive oil, salt, pepper, lemon, and garlic.

The combined inspiration of Luke’s Lobster and Anthony Bourdain is clear; prepare seafood simply, with minimal ingredients, and let the flavor of the seafood shine.  The pairing featured in this post is Chef Sue’s interpretation of this challenge to present seafood in all it’s rich simplicity.  I have to admit that I planned to take a more literal translation of the Anthony Bourdain experience and limit myself to the seafood, olive oil, salt, pepper, lemon, and garlic.  Alas, it was the weekend, and it was Chef Sue’s cooking therapy time.  Check back soon to see my interpretation as our friendly kitchen competition rages on.

Although Chef Sue took a bit bolder approach than I had conceived, I am oh so happy she did.  This was a wonderfully balanced dish with layer upon layer of complimentary and contrasting flavors.  The umami filled mushroom risotto is the foundation layer.  Add to that the pleasant bitter flavors of the garlic sautéed Brussels sprouts, and finally the pinnacle of this pyramid; sweet shrimp and scallops marinated in olive oil, garlic, fresh squeezed lemon, ground turmeric, diced tomato, and finely chopped basil – surrounding a beautiful cod fillet broiled under a generous coating of the marinade.  In other words, we have a solid umami foundation, very mild bitterness from the Brussels sprouts and garlic to contrast with the delicate sweetness of the seafood, all balanced with the acid from lemon juice and tomatoes.  Simply brilliant.  As a side note, Chef Sue applied a deft hand with the addition of the turmeric to the marinade.  This addition was intended to add color rather than flavor.  She accomplished this with alacrity – great color, and only the slightest hint of added flavor.

For the pairing, I selected a 2009 Benziger Family Winery Sonoma Coast Wente Clone Chardonnay from the dangerously low selection of white wines in the Corl wine vault (I will work on remedying this soon – subtle hint to the wine makers – send me something, I will work with it!).  Here are the tasting notes from Benziger:

“The southern end of Sonoma produces wines with crisp acidity and fresh citrus flavors. On the palate, the wine is supple and long, with a touch of oak and butterscotch cookie in the finish. Enjoy with fried calamari, scallops in a light curry sauce, crab cakes, filet of sole with almonds, or turkey Panini.”

Our experience with the wine confirmed the bright citrus and crisp acidity which formed a perfect balance with the seafood.  Both Chef Sue and I translated the “butterscotch cookie” as more of a buttery flavor (probably a subtle distinction) which gave the sensation of pouring a perfect portion of clarified butter over the seafood – a natural combination.  The oak was subtle, pleasant, and did not detract from the wonderful layers of flavor mutually enhanced by the food and the wine.  In summary, the Benziger Chardonnay was a perfectly balanced compliment in all respects and achieved the “better than the sum of the parts” result we relentlessly pursue.  At $29, the 2009 Benziger Family Winery Sonoma Coast Wente Clone Chardonnay is a good value and can be ordered online at http://www.benziger.com/2009_wentechard.

Remember to check back soon to see my interpretation of simplicity applied to a seafood medley of cod fillet, shrimp, and bay scallops.  I’m pretty sure this will be another Chardonnay pairing with a focus on buttery flavors.  If you have a wine you would like to suggest for this pairing, let me know.

Recipes

Garlic Sautéed Brussels Sprouts

You don’t need me to tell you how to do this.  Clean some garden fresh Brussels sprouts, halve them, and sauté with olive oil, garlic, salt, and pepper.

Mushroom Risotto

Ingredients

• 1 lb assorted fresh sliced mushrooms
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 3/4 cup Arborio rice
• 1 clove minced garlic
• 1 quart chicken broth
• 1 ounce fresh grated parmesan cheese
• 1 ounce fresh grated Romano cheese
• 1 tablespoon fresh chopped chives
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation

1. Sautee mushrooms and garlic in the olive oil and butter for two to three minutes.
2. Add rice. Stir until center of rice looks like a pearl - translucent white
3. Add chicken stock 1/4 cup at a time. Continue to add as the liquid evaporates
4. Continue adding stock and stirring until rice is tender - you may not use all of the chicken stock.
5. When rice is tender, stir in grated cheese.
6. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
7. Garnish with chives.

Marinated Broiled Cod Fillet, Shrimp and Bay Scallops

Ingredients

• One pound (mas o menos) cod filet
• 1/2 pound fresh shrimp with heads on - cleaned
• 1/2 pound fresh bay scallops
• 6 fresh basil leaves
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 4 cloves minced garlic
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
• Juice from 1/2 freshly squeezed lemon for marinade and other half for cod fillet.
• 1 large tomato diced
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation

1. Combine olive oil, basil, turmeric, and diced tomato in a bowl for marinating the shrimp and scallops
2. Add shrimp and scallops to the marinade and toss to coat well
3. Cover your broiling pan with tin foil with a few holes poked in it
4. Broil cod and scallops first - 2 inches from broiler, covered with marinade and lemon juice
5. After five minutes, add the shrimp and broil for another four minutes.

In vino veritas, buen provecho

Craig

Bastille Day Dinner–Coq au Vin Paired with Côtes du Rhône

I don’t need an excuse to gather with friends, head to the kitchen, and open a bottle of good wine.  However, if a good reason happens to pop up, I am not one to ignore it.  This week presented a perfectly good excuse, and I did not ignore it.  At the beginning of the week, we realized that Bastille Day was Thursday.  Perfect!  French food and French wine!  The deal was done.

Not having any experience with French cooking, I quickly sent a text message to Chef Sue asking her for recommendations.  In mere seconds I received the reply “coq au vin and cream puffs.”  I immediately seized with terror.  Not so much with respect to the coq au vin (I supposed I could figure that out, but still a little intimidating), but the cream puffs part left me feeling I had just turned down a dark alley and came face to face with Freddy Krueger.  This paralyzing horror has a history.  Back in the day when Chef Sue and I were still dating (when telephones still had rotary dials, we listened to music on vinyl, and Ronald Regan was not a legend – he was President) I recall the crystal clear memory of Chef Sue practicing for her pastry final while attending Johnson and Wales – cream puffs shaped in the form of a swan.  Oh, the humanity of the scene.  Discarded cream puffs littered the kitchen of her small apartment.  Cream puffs that deflated, headless, were too dry, to wet, or suffered other various states of imperfection or anatomical deformity  that did not meet Chef Sue’s exacting standards.  Of course, I ate them and was dumbfounded as to why any of these delicious creations were found wanting.  In the end, Chef Sue aced the pastry final with an artfully formed swan, and I ended up with a cream puff hangover…I’m pretty sure it was the cream puffs.

As is tradition, I began the coq au vin meal planning by researching recipes.  Unremarkably, the gaggle of recipes I found used essentially the same ingredients and the same process.  I made a couple of minor adjustments that are reflected in the recipe at the end of this post.  Nothing major, but why leave well enough alone?  In summary, I replaced the recommended blanched salt pork with bacon, for the mushrooms I used a combination of sliced button mushrooms and baby portabella, minced garlic rather than pureed garlic cloves, and thyme sprigs rather than parsley.

The crowd (eight of us – I would name all of you, but you know who you are – rock stars each and every one) all found this meal plate licking good.  Seriously, the layers of flavor and the mind bending awesomeness of the sauce prompted involuntary smiles and giggles around the table.  Some of this flavor layering is due to the choice of cooking wine – I used a bottle of Four Vines Zinfandel.  The complex layers of flavor in the Zinfandel were repeated exquisitely in the final dish.  These deep fruit and spice flavors made for a wonderful match to the wine paring - Côtes du Rhône.  In addition to the flavors imparted by the Zinfandel, the dish features deep, rich, earthy notes well balanced by the sweetness from the braised onions and a bright acidity contributed by the tomatoes, onions and Zinfandel.

The wine for this pairing was a group effort. We had four bottles of Cotes du Rhone contributed by the dinner party contestants including:

• 2008 Sélection Laurence Féraud Laurence Feraud Seguret Côtes du Rhône Villages
• 2008 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Parallèle 45 Côtes du Rhône
• 2009 Michel Picard Côtes du Rhône
• 2009 Barton and Guestier Côtes du Rhône

I would love to give you all the details of each wine…but it would be redundant.  Quite honestly, as I tasted each wine with the meal, I could barely distinguish only subtle and un-noteworthy differences.  So, as a group, I will offer the following observations; black cherry and dark fruit flavors with black berry seeming to be the most recognizable, nice acidity and noticeable minerality.  All were velvety on the tongue which was accentuated with a hint of leather, and subdued tannins.  These were all very drinkable wines that clearly have a favored place with food pairing.  Finally, all the wines were great values and ranged in price from $10 to $16.

The pairing of the Côtes du Rhône with the coq au vin was simply heavenly.  With the first forkful of the coq au vin came a small voice saying “some wine with this would make me very happy.”  And happy we were.  Everything about this pairing worked better than planned.  The wine sang in perfect harmony with the coq au vin with neither the food nor wine competing for attention – they found a pleasant state of peaceful coexistence that drew out the principal flavors in their counterpart.  The cherry and dark fruit flavors of the Côtes du Rhône were a wonderful layer of flavor standing squarely beside the deep earthy notes of the coq au vin. Finally, the acidity of the coq au vin was precisely matched with the acidity of the Côtes du Rhône.  This pairing will certainly be showing up on our table again – ah, as soon as I work my way through the rest of France!  Thanks a bunch to the dinner party for their commentary that made writing this post cream puff easy.

Recipes

Coq au Vin

Note:  The recipe is for 4 servings with some leftovers for lunch.  For our group of eight, I doubled this…and yes, I had two Dutch ovens running in parallel.

Ingredients

• 4 bacon strips cut to one inch lengths
• 2 1/2 to 3 pounds chicken quarters
• 2 tablespoons butter
• Olive oil to coat bottom of Dutch oven
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• 1 bay leaf
• 3 sprigs fresh thyme
• 3 small vine ripened red unpeeled tomatoes from Dawn’s garden, chopped,
• 3 cups of Four Vines Zinfandel.  I know you want to drink it, but it is worth the sacrifice.
• 1 or so cups chicken stock
• Beurre manie, for the sauce (1 1/2 tbs. each flour softened butter blended to a paste)
• 1/3 cup cognac or brandy
• 12 small brown-braised white onions
• 3 cups fresh mushrooms, 1/2 button mushrooms and 1/2 baby portabella.

Preparation

1. Brown the onions in butter and touch of olive oil. During the last 2 minutes, add the mushrooms and continue to sauté until mushrooms are tender. Remove from heat and set aside.
2. Sauté the bacon  in a Dutch oven with a little olive oil (lid off) and remove to a side dish, leaving the fat in the pan.
3. Brown the chicken in the pork fat, adding a little olive oil, if needed.
4. Flame the chicken with the brandy using a match or gill lighter.  Have someone else take photos – safety first.
5. Season the chicken with salt and pepper; return it to the Dutch oven. Add the browned onions, and the garlic, bay leaf, thyme and tomato. Pour in the wine and enough stock barely to cover the ingredients. Bring to a simmer; cover, and continue to simmer for 20 minutes, or until the chicken is tender when pressed.
6. Finishing the chicken -- the sauce. Remove the chicken to a side dish.  Boil down rapidly adding more of the seasonings if you think them necessary.  The idea is to boil down the sauce to get the intensity of flavor you are looking for.  This is a matter of taste.
7. Off heat, whisk the beurre manie to make a lightly-thickened sauce. Bring briefly to the simmer -- the sauce should be just thick enough to coat a spoon lightly.
8. Return the chicken to the sauce and warm for serving.  If you have reduced the sauce so the chicken is exposed, baste it while heating.
9. Serve with boiled new potatoes.

Cream Puffs

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup butter
• 1 cup water
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 4 eggs

Preparation

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees F (220 degrees C).
2. In a large pot, bring water and butter to a boil. Stir in flour and salt until the mixture forms a ball.
3. Transfer the dough to a large mixing bowl. Using a wooden spoon or stand mixer, beat in the eggs one at a time.
4. Drop by tablespoonful's onto an ungreased baking sheet.
5. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes in the preheated oven, until golden brown. Centers should be dry.
6. When the shells are cool, either split and fill them with the pudding mixture, or use a pastry bag to pipe the custard into the shells.

Cream Puff Custard

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup white sugar
• 5 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1 pinch salt
• 2 cups milk
• 2 egg yolks, beaten
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preparation

1. In a small saucepan, combine 1/2 cup sugar, 5 tablespoons flour and a pinch of salt.
2. Stir in milk, a little at a time, until smooth.
3. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly.
4. Boil 60 seconds, then pour a small amount of hot liquid into the 2 egg yolks, and stir. Then return now heated egg yolks to saucepan and stir, over heat, until mixture starts to bubble again.
5. Remove from heat, stir in vanilla, cover and chill in refrigerator.

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig

Lamb Spinach Ricotta Ravioli in a White Wine Mushroom Cream Sauce Paired with 2009 14 Hands Washington State Chardonnay

I’m afraid the description of this pairing will not follow the normal form.  First, the pairing was supposed to be with a 2009 Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay – but Chef Sue and I drank it while preparing the meal – oops.  Second, I don’t have a recipe – this meal (and pairing) started as an idea and was a “cook on the fly” type experience sticking within the broad idea for the meal.  The dish is not difficult, so an idea was sufficient.  This is a common experience for our weekends at our secret Southern Maryland waterfront lair – no rules, just ideas.

Although I will not be providing a recipe, this was not that complicated with the exception of all the home made ingredients which include ricotta, lamb sausage, and the pasta.  If you are not prepared to whip up those parts in your kitchen, make a substitution from the grocery store and butcher – it won’t hurt my feelings.  Between my description and the photographs, I am confident you can recreate this wonderful dish.

In the last year, Chef Sue has tilted over the edge and decided that we should be making our own cheese.  Being a Homer Simpson-like fan of cheese, I don’t complain.  And because this is Chef Sue’s little running science project, all I have to do is sit back and enjoy the fruits of her labor.  Not a bad deal.  This dish started with Chef Sue making fresh ricotta.  Yum.  There is a world of difference between home made ricotta and the stuff that comes in the plastic tub.  Added to this cheesy goodness is some garlic sautéed spinach and some freshly ground lamb combined with some fennel and ground mushrooms to form the loose lamb sausage.

Next comes the pasta for creating the ravioli – just follow the pictures – easy stuff.  Once the pasta is ready, stuff it with the spinach-ricotta-lamb sausage mixture, seal it with an egg wash, cut to shape and it is ready for the swimming pool.

Finally, Chef Sue topped the cooked ravioli in a white wine mushroom cream sauce.  We used dried mushrooms, so the soaking water was a key ingredient in the sauce.  Plate, garnish (parsley and shaved parmesan), and enjoy.

The flavors in this dish are the ones that make you smile involuntarily.  Earthy mushroom, creamy smoothness from the sauce and the fresh ricotta, a little gaminess from the lamb and a touch of bitter from the spinach and garlic.  A other-worldly mixture and balance of flavors.  Add a touch of truffle oil or truffle salt to achieve interplanetary travel.

I have to be honest and tell you that it has been over a month since we prepared this meal, and I don’t recall the specific flavors of the wine (maybe the fault of that first bottle of Cakebread).  But I am confident in saying the wine was a delight and the pairing a real treat.  Lacking a crystal clear memory, here are a few notes from the people at 14 hands:

“14 Hands Chardonnay offers bright aromas of apples and pears with a touch of caramel and spice. Elegant fruit flavors give way to hints of butter and coconut, ending with a juicy finish. Balanced and approachable, this wine can stand alone as an aperitif or partners well with buttered fish, grilled pork or pasta with cream sauce.”

Sounds about right to me – and pasta with cream sauce – YES!  The fruit and buttery finish I hazily recall as prominent and key to working well with the ravioli and cream sauce.  At $12 a bottle, this wine definitely falls into the category of excellent value.

My apologies for the less than precise rendering of this pairing, but every once in a while it is good to use your imagination.  Maybe one of these days I will post a pairing with nothing but photos and let you figure it out – now there is a challenge!

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig