Pan-Seared Cod Creamy Fennel Ragoût with Black Bean, Jícama, and Grilled Corn Salad Paired with 2008 Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay

In the very early days of this blog I posted a wine pairing featuring Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay - Butternut Squash and Chorizo Empanadas with Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay.  The pairing was spectacular, but I did not give the Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay my full endorsement when I wrote that the wine was wonderful but overpriced.  I decided to give it another chance, forked over another $40, and started the meal with an open mind.

While suffering through the heat wave that has its grip on the East Coast of the U.S., actually most of the U.S., Chef Sue and I began thinking of dinner and our desire for something light and fresh.  We quickly settled on one of our favorites as the centerpiece – cod.  Through some convoluted logic trail that I am unable to explain, fennel came to be named as a key ingredient as well.  Chef Sue quickly set about to find ideas.  Moments later she came across a recipe for pan-seared cod and creamy fennel ragoût at Epicurious.com.  Normally, this is just the starting point, but Chef Sue was satisfied with the recipe, and there you have it.

As a composition, the pan-seared cod and creamy fennel ragoût was subtle, buttery, creamy, flakey goodness.  The fennel was sweet and delicate and added just the slightest hint of licorice.  If you are not a licorice fan, no worries – you have to concentrate hard to pick up the flavor.  Fresh Florence fennel is quite sweet and subtle, and has little relationship to the much stronger flavor of fennel seeds.

Along with the pan-seared cod and creamy fennel ragoût, Chef Sue prepared a black bean, jícama, and grilled corn salad (this recipe also came from Epicurious.com).  This was a wonderful addition to the meal.  Unlike the internally complimentary flavors of the pan-seared cod, the salad was an exercise in well balanced contrast.  The black bean, jícama, and grilled corn salad was fresh, bright, and a wonderful textural contrast to the cod.

Now we come full circle to the 2008 Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay.  First, here are the tasting notes from the winemaker:

“Our 2008 Napa Valley Chardonnay seduces right off the bat with brilliantly fresh, complex aromas of lemon-lime, scented pear, ripe yellow apple, honeydew melon and mineral. On the sleek, vibrant palate, rich, concentrated, ripe apple and pear flavors dominate, with refreshing citrus and mineral tones emerging in the wine’s wonderfully long, crisp, finish. Deliciously fresh and delectable now, this youthful Chardonnay will blossom and gain further richness and complexity with another 6-8 months in the bottle and will drink beautifully for 3 to 5 years.”

The only thing I would add is that I tasted subtle notes of vanilla, and was pleased with the acidity making this a wonderful wine for food pairing.  I was hoping to recant my prior assessment of this wine and suggest it was a good value.  While a wonderful wine, I still believe it is a bit pricey at $40.  Having said this, the pairing was exceptional.  The intense and bright fruit flavors are perfect compliments to the fresh flavors of the black bean, jícama, and grilled corn salad.  And like the salad, the Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay was a very pleasing contrast to the creamy, subtle flavors of the pan-seared cod.  This is a pairing well worth your time, effort, and $40 for the Chardonnay.

We were fortunate to share this wonderful meal with our neighbors Aaron and Lena.  We topped the night with a made from scratch banana cream pie while keeping one eye on Cadel Evans capturing the Yellow Jersey in the final time-trial of the Tour de France – leading to the first ever Tour de France win for an Australian – good on ya mate.  The banana cream pie was spectacular, but deserves our full attention in another post.  We will return to this piece of heaven soon.

Recipes

Pan-Seared Cod with Creamy Fennel Ragoût

Ingredients

• 4 slices bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-wide strips
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 fennel bulbs (sometimes called anise; 2 pounds), stalks discarded and bulbs cut lengthwise into 1-inch wedges
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/8 teaspoon black pepper
• 1 3/4 cups low-sodium chicken broth (14 fluid ounces)
• 2/3 cup heavy cream
• 1/4 cup chopped drained sun-dried tomatoes (packed in oil)
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 4 (7-ounce) pieces cod, scrod, or halibut fillet (about 1 inch thick)
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• Garnish: fennel fronds

Preparation

1. Cook bacon in a 10- to 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until slightly crisp, 6 to 8 minutes.
2. Transfer bacon with a slotted spoon to a bowl.
3. Add 1 tablespoon oil to fat in skillet, then cook fennel with salt and pepper over moderate heat, turning occasionally, until lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes.
4. Add broth, cream, tomatoes, and garlic to fennel and cook, partially covered, over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until fennel is tender and cream is slightly thickened, about 20 minutes.
5. While fennel cooks, heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking.
6. Season fillets with salt and pepper, then sauté 4 minutes. Turn over and sauté until just cooked through, about 3 minutes more.
7. Stir mustard and bacon into fennel ragout and season with salt and pepper. Serve cod over fennel ragout.

Black Bean, Jícama, and Grilled Corn Salad

Ingredients

• 2 large ears of corn, husked
• 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• 2 15-ounce cans black beans, rinsed, drained
• 1 cup 1/3-inch dice peeled jicama
• 1/2 cup 1/3-inch dice peeled carrots
• 1/3 cup thinly sliced green onions
• 1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 1/4 cup (packed) chopped fresh basil
• 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• 2 tablespoons orange juice
• 2 1/2 teaspoons grated lime peel
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

Preparation

1. Prepare barbecue (medium-high heat).
2. Brush corn with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Grill corn until tender and brown in spots, turning occasionally, about 10 minutes.
3. Cool slightly. Cut off corn kernels; place in large bowl.
4. Add black beans, jicama, carrots, green onions, cilantro, and basil.
5. Whisk lime juice, orange juice, lime peel, cumin, and remaining 4 tablespoons oil in small bowl.
6. Mix dressing into bean salad. Season generously with salt and pepper.

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig

Butternut Squash and Chorizo Empanadas with Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay

I am finally writing the first post about a pairing from the anchor of this podcast:  Decanting Napa Valley The Cookbook (lets call it DNV so I can save some typing).  The pairing we chose first was a butternut squash empanada paired with Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay.  I will be honest and tell you that the choice was completely random.  Well at least random from the perspective that I went to my favorite purveyor of wine and spirits (Schneider’s of Capitol Hill) with my wine list from DNV and said “which of these wines do you have in stock?”  The Cakebread Chardonnay was the first choice and therefore the first pairing.

The Food

The empanadas were a perfectly balanced blend of spiciness from the chorizo and sweetness from the butternut squash.  The spice of the chorizo was further contrasted by the gruyere cheese which did a complete vulcan mind meld with the squash.

The only disappointment with the recipe was the use of puff pastry in place of empanada dough.  I will be fair and say that it did not diminish the flavors, but it just felt like cheating.

For a little variety I added a distant cousin to the empanada from another part of the world – Feta and Spinach Tyropitas.  Unlike the empanadas, I can share this recipe.  You will find it along with a recipe for empanada dough at the end of this article.

The Wine

From the Cakebread Cellars Tasting notes:

“Our 2009 Napa Valley Chardonnay boasts lovely, perfumed aromas of fresh melon, yellow apple, lime and white peach, with complementary mineral and toasty-spicy oak scents.  On the full-bodied, yet sleek palate, the wine offers concentrated, beautifully focused, peach, apple and citrus zest flavors, with mineral and spice tones enlivening the long, refreshing finish. Delightful now, this purely delicious Napa Valley Chardonnay will blossom further with another six months in bottle and, with proper cellaring, will drink beautifully for another 3 to 5 years.”

The components that stood out for me were the fresh citrus flavors blending nicely with the well balanced oak and butter flavors.

The Pairing

The pairing worked exceptionally well.  The citrus flavors formed a nice contrast with the spice of the chorizo while the oak notes of the Chardonnay danced happily with the same spice.  The moderate buttery flavors of the Chardonnay picked the dance partners of the butternut squash and guryere cheese.  They were all very happy.

With the feta and spinach tyroppitas, the fresh citrus of the Cakebread formed a nice contrast with the saltiness of the feta cheese.  It was a battle that came to a pleasing draw.

Final Words

I have no reservations in recommending this pairing.  It was a true pleasure, and I can’t wait to make the empanadas again (with dough made from scratch).  The only thing that is not completely positive is with respect to the price/value of the Cakebread Chardonnay.  Yes, Cakebread has a wonderful reputation, and yes, they produce wonderful wines.  And this 2009 Chardonnay is no exception.  However, I believe it is over priced.  There are plenty of Chardonnays that compete well with this wine for half the price.  I paid $44, and web prices range from $35 to $53.  When I get to the $40 range, I expect eye rolling back in the head, angles singing, pinch me back to reality, multiple winegasms.  The wine was good, but not that good.  The 2009 Cakebread Chardonnay is a good value at $25.

Recipes

Sorry, you will have to buy the book for the Empanada recipe, but here is a recipe for Empanada dough and the recipe for the feta and spinach tyropitas.

Empanada Dough

Ingredients:

• 3 cups flour (plus a little more for kneading)
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 cup cold water
• 1 egg
• 1 egg white
• 1 teaspoon vinegar
• 3 tablespoons shortening

Preparation:

1. In a bowl, beat the water, egg, egg white and vinegar together. Set aside.

2. In a separate bowl, mix together the 3 cups of flour and salt.

3. Cut the shortening into the flour mix with a pastry blender, two butter knives or a baseball bat (I don’t like this part). Make a well in the center of the flour mix and pour the liquid ingredients from the first bowl into the center (just like we did with the gnocchi)

4. Mix the wet and dry ingredients with a fork until it becomes stiff.

5. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead it just until all the flour is incorporated and the dough is smooth.

6. Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, but never more than 24 hours.

Servings: Makes approximately 10 six-inch empanadas.

Feta and Spinach Tyropitas

Ingredients:

• 1 pound of crumbled feta cheese
• 1 pound spinach sautéed with garlic
• 2 tablespoons ouzo
• 2 shots ouzo (for you!)
• 1/2 teaspoon fine ground black pepper
• 1 pound thawed phyllo dough
• 2 cups melted butter (you can use clarified butter if you are a purist)

Preparation:

1. Mix the first five ingredients together in a bowl.  Taste for seasoning and adjust if necessary.
2. On a cutting board, layout three sheets of phyllo brushing with the butter between each layer.
3. Cut into strips roughly 2.56573 inches wide.
4. Place a healthy tablespoon full of filing (remember the bowl?) at the bottom of each strip closest to you.
5. Fold into triangles.  Huh?  Easy…it is like folding a flag for all you scouts out there.  take a corner, fold it over the fat boy tablespoon of filling at a 45 degree angle.  Then just keep folding until you use up the 2.56573 inch strip. 
6. Place on a sheet tray and bake at 375 degrees until golden brown (about 10 minutes).

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig