Zucchini Bruschetta and Zucchini Rings Stuffed with Garlic Sautéed Shrimp with Saffron Zucchini Puree paired with 2009 Sebastiani Sonoma County Chardonnay

September is the time when your garden, and the gardens of everyone you know, is overflowing with zucchini.  It’s the season when bags of zucchini show up on your door step and litter the counter of your break room at work as everyone goes into zucchini overload and is desperately trying to find someone to take their excess crop.  Chef Sue’s urban garden did not include zucchini, but we have not been at a loss for these beautiful green garden missiles.  With this in mind, I thought to put together a couple recipes you might try to help with your zucchini inundation.  My intent was to stray outside the lines of the normal zucchini fate and create something new and interesting.  My good friends Richter and Meredith joined me last night to sample these creations.  When the night ended with not a morsel left, we concluded the experiment was a success.

As has been my recent trend in recipe creation and pairing, my intent with these dishes was to not stray far afield of the principle flavor of the main ingredient.  In this case, I wanted the essence of the zucchini to remain at center stage.  The zucchini bruschetta and the puree were true to my intent.  However, the zucchini ring filled with an egg and topped with garlic sautéed shrimp was not as clear an interpretation.  Don’t get me wrong, it was rich and delicious, but the zucchini offered little more than a pleasant textural contrast while the egg yolk (perfectly cooked to form another layer of sauce), and the garlic shrimp overpowered the mild flavor of zucchini.

The bold flavors of the garlic shrimp were also a challenge for the wine pairing.  I had intended this pairing to feature a wine recommended by Golf Buddy Steve – a 2009 Silvergum Australia Chardonnay.  This wine has a pleasant floral nose and features flavors of citrus, peach, mellon and subtle hints of butterscotch supported by healthy acidity.  Unfortunately, for a Chardonnay the 2009 Silvergum Australia Chardonnay is light bodied and did not match the heft of the garlic shrimp.  This is not to say a light bodied wine would not work – something like a Sauvignon Blanc with bright citrus flavors and strong acidity would have gone toe to toe with the shrimp.

Fortunately, I was prepared for this and had a bottle of my standby favorite within arms reach.  The body of the 2009 Sebastiani Sonoma County Chardonnay was up to the task with welcome structure and minerality coupled with flavors of ripe pear, apple, vanilla and a wonderful buttery feel.  At $11 this wine is an exceptional value and is a staple on my wine rack.

Recipes

Zucchini Bruschetta

Ingredients

• 4 slices French bread
• olive oil
• 3 cups zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch dice
• 1/2 finely diced red onion
• 4 ounces crumbled feta cheese
• 2 tablespoons capers
• 2 tablespoons fresh basil leaves, chopped
• Salt and Pepper to taste

Preparation

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
2. Arrange the bread slices on a sheet pan and brush with olive oil
3. Bake until crisp, about 8 minutes.
4. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat.
5. Add the zucchini and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring frequently just to soften.
6. Season with the salt and pepper.
7. Remove from the heat and set aside.
8. Combine red onion, feta cheese, capers and basil in a large bowl.
9. Add the zucchini and any olive oil left in the skillet.
10. Stir well and season if needed.
11. Top each bread slice with the zucchini mixture and serve.

Garlic Shrimp and Egg Stuffed Zucchini Rings

Ingredients

• 4 large 3/4 inch thick zucchini rings with center cut out. Find a large zucchini - 4 to 6 inches in diameter.
• 1 lb shrimp
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• 2 tablespoons butter
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1/4 cup finely chopped basil leaves

Preparation

1. Cut zucchini into 3/4 inch rings and hollow out the middle
2. Sautee one side of the zucchini then flip
3. Add an egg to the hollowed zucchini
4. Cover and continue until egg is cooked leaving the yolk uncooked
5. In a separate skillet, melt butter, add garlic and shrimp.
6. One minute before done, add basil leaves and season to taste.

Saffron Eggplant Puree

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 2  cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1/4 cup finely chopped basil leaves
• 2 cups coarsely chopped zucchini
• 1/4 cup sherry vinegar
• 1 cup water
• Pinch saffron
• Salt and freshly ground pepper

Preparation

1. Heat oil in a medium sauté pan over medium high heat.
2. Add the onions and garlic and cook until soft.
3. Add the zucchini, vinegar, basil , water and saffron and bring to a simmer.
4. Cook for 15 to 20 minutes.
5. Place in a blender and blend until smooth, season with salt and pepper to taste.

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig

Fresh Seafood Medley of Cod Fillet, Shrimp, And Bay Scallops in a Turmeric Basil Marinade with Mushroom Risotto and Garlic Sautéed Brussels Sprouts Paired with 2009 Benziger Family Winery Sonoma Coast Wente Clone Chardonnay

Chef Sue and I were recently inspired by Anthony Bourdain (“No Reservations” on the Travel Channel) and Luke’s Lobster (see my recent post “Maine Lobster Roll from Luke’s Lobster Paired with 2008 Ledson Sonoma Coast Tres Frais Chardonnay”).  Let’s start with the Luke’s Lobster part of the inspiration.  In my post featuring a pairing of a Taste of Maine from Luke’s Lobster, I completely gushed about the simple elegance of the lobster roll, shrimp roll, and crab roll.  The application of condiments and flavors supporting the seafood was light handed and clearly designed to let the star of the show stand in the spotlight.  It was simple, and it was spectacular.

Now for the Anthony Bourdain part of the inspiration.  Chef Bourdain produced a series of episodes focusing on the history and future of El Bulli in Costa Brava Spain led by the incredible Chef Ferran Adria.  Chef Adria and his phenomenal work at the culinary Mecca of El Bulli are known for a lot of things – simplicity is not one of them.  With 50 course meals served in “The Best Restaurant in the World” at a meticulous pace and deft sequencing using Chef Adria’s research into molecular gastronomy, El Bulli is anything but simple.

In one of the episodes, Bourdain accompanies Chef Adria to his favorite coastal restaurant that features only seafood served fresh within hours of being caught.  This fresh flavors are further focused by simplicity in preparation with only minimal ingredients – olive oil, salt, pepper, lemon, and garlic.

The combined inspiration of Luke’s Lobster and Anthony Bourdain is clear; prepare seafood simply, with minimal ingredients, and let the flavor of the seafood shine.  The pairing featured in this post is Chef Sue’s interpretation of this challenge to present seafood in all it’s rich simplicity.  I have to admit that I planned to take a more literal translation of the Anthony Bourdain experience and limit myself to the seafood, olive oil, salt, pepper, lemon, and garlic.  Alas, it was the weekend, and it was Chef Sue’s cooking therapy time.  Check back soon to see my interpretation as our friendly kitchen competition rages on.

Although Chef Sue took a bit bolder approach than I had conceived, I am oh so happy she did.  This was a wonderfully balanced dish with layer upon layer of complimentary and contrasting flavors.  The umami filled mushroom risotto is the foundation layer.  Add to that the pleasant bitter flavors of the garlic sautéed Brussels sprouts, and finally the pinnacle of this pyramid; sweet shrimp and scallops marinated in olive oil, garlic, fresh squeezed lemon, ground turmeric, diced tomato, and finely chopped basil – surrounding a beautiful cod fillet broiled under a generous coating of the marinade.  In other words, we have a solid umami foundation, very mild bitterness from the Brussels sprouts and garlic to contrast with the delicate sweetness of the seafood, all balanced with the acid from lemon juice and tomatoes.  Simply brilliant.  As a side note, Chef Sue applied a deft hand with the addition of the turmeric to the marinade.  This addition was intended to add color rather than flavor.  She accomplished this with alacrity – great color, and only the slightest hint of added flavor.

For the pairing, I selected a 2009 Benziger Family Winery Sonoma Coast Wente Clone Chardonnay from the dangerously low selection of white wines in the Corl wine vault (I will work on remedying this soon – subtle hint to the wine makers – send me something, I will work with it!).  Here are the tasting notes from Benziger:

“The southern end of Sonoma produces wines with crisp acidity and fresh citrus flavors. On the palate, the wine is supple and long, with a touch of oak and butterscotch cookie in the finish. Enjoy with fried calamari, scallops in a light curry sauce, crab cakes, filet of sole with almonds, or turkey Panini.”

Our experience with the wine confirmed the bright citrus and crisp acidity which formed a perfect balance with the seafood.  Both Chef Sue and I translated the “butterscotch cookie” as more of a buttery flavor (probably a subtle distinction) which gave the sensation of pouring a perfect portion of clarified butter over the seafood – a natural combination.  The oak was subtle, pleasant, and did not detract from the wonderful layers of flavor mutually enhanced by the food and the wine.  In summary, the Benziger Chardonnay was a perfectly balanced compliment in all respects and achieved the “better than the sum of the parts” result we relentlessly pursue.  At $29, the 2009 Benziger Family Winery Sonoma Coast Wente Clone Chardonnay is a good value and can be ordered online at http://www.benziger.com/2009_wentechard.

Remember to check back soon to see my interpretation of simplicity applied to a seafood medley of cod fillet, shrimp, and bay scallops.  I’m pretty sure this will be another Chardonnay pairing with a focus on buttery flavors.  If you have a wine you would like to suggest for this pairing, let me know.

Recipes

Garlic Sautéed Brussels Sprouts

You don’t need me to tell you how to do this.  Clean some garden fresh Brussels sprouts, halve them, and sauté with olive oil, garlic, salt, and pepper.

Mushroom Risotto

Ingredients

• 1 lb assorted fresh sliced mushrooms
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 3/4 cup Arborio rice
• 1 clove minced garlic
• 1 quart chicken broth
• 1 ounce fresh grated parmesan cheese
• 1 ounce fresh grated Romano cheese
• 1 tablespoon fresh chopped chives
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation

1. Sautee mushrooms and garlic in the olive oil and butter for two to three minutes.
2. Add rice. Stir until center of rice looks like a pearl - translucent white
3. Add chicken stock 1/4 cup at a time. Continue to add as the liquid evaporates
4. Continue adding stock and stirring until rice is tender - you may not use all of the chicken stock.
5. When rice is tender, stir in grated cheese.
6. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
7. Garnish with chives.

Marinated Broiled Cod Fillet, Shrimp and Bay Scallops

Ingredients

• One pound (mas o menos) cod filet
• 1/2 pound fresh shrimp with heads on - cleaned
• 1/2 pound fresh bay scallops
• 6 fresh basil leaves
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 4 cloves minced garlic
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
• Juice from 1/2 freshly squeezed lemon for marinade and other half for cod fillet.
• 1 large tomato diced
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation

1. Combine olive oil, basil, turmeric, and diced tomato in a bowl for marinating the shrimp and scallops
2. Add shrimp and scallops to the marinade and toss to coat well
3. Cover your broiling pan with tin foil with a few holes poked in it
4. Broil cod and scallops first - 2 inches from broiler, covered with marinade and lemon juice
5. After five minutes, add the shrimp and broil for another four minutes.

In vino veritas, buen provecho

Craig

Pan-Seared Cod Creamy Fennel Ragoût with Black Bean, Jícama, and Grilled Corn Salad Paired with 2008 Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay

In the very early days of this blog I posted a wine pairing featuring Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay - Butternut Squash and Chorizo Empanadas with Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay.  The pairing was spectacular, but I did not give the Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay my full endorsement when I wrote that the wine was wonderful but overpriced.  I decided to give it another chance, forked over another $40, and started the meal with an open mind.

While suffering through the heat wave that has its grip on the East Coast of the U.S., actually most of the U.S., Chef Sue and I began thinking of dinner and our desire for something light and fresh.  We quickly settled on one of our favorites as the centerpiece – cod.  Through some convoluted logic trail that I am unable to explain, fennel came to be named as a key ingredient as well.  Chef Sue quickly set about to find ideas.  Moments later she came across a recipe for pan-seared cod and creamy fennel ragoût at Epicurious.com.  Normally, this is just the starting point, but Chef Sue was satisfied with the recipe, and there you have it.

As a composition, the pan-seared cod and creamy fennel ragoût was subtle, buttery, creamy, flakey goodness.  The fennel was sweet and delicate and added just the slightest hint of licorice.  If you are not a licorice fan, no worries – you have to concentrate hard to pick up the flavor.  Fresh Florence fennel is quite sweet and subtle, and has little relationship to the much stronger flavor of fennel seeds.

Along with the pan-seared cod and creamy fennel ragoût, Chef Sue prepared a black bean, jícama, and grilled corn salad (this recipe also came from Epicurious.com).  This was a wonderful addition to the meal.  Unlike the internally complimentary flavors of the pan-seared cod, the salad was an exercise in well balanced contrast.  The black bean, jícama, and grilled corn salad was fresh, bright, and a wonderful textural contrast to the cod.

Now we come full circle to the 2008 Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay.  First, here are the tasting notes from the winemaker:

“Our 2008 Napa Valley Chardonnay seduces right off the bat with brilliantly fresh, complex aromas of lemon-lime, scented pear, ripe yellow apple, honeydew melon and mineral. On the sleek, vibrant palate, rich, concentrated, ripe apple and pear flavors dominate, with refreshing citrus and mineral tones emerging in the wine’s wonderfully long, crisp, finish. Deliciously fresh and delectable now, this youthful Chardonnay will blossom and gain further richness and complexity with another 6-8 months in the bottle and will drink beautifully for 3 to 5 years.”

The only thing I would add is that I tasted subtle notes of vanilla, and was pleased with the acidity making this a wonderful wine for food pairing.  I was hoping to recant my prior assessment of this wine and suggest it was a good value.  While a wonderful wine, I still believe it is a bit pricey at $40.  Having said this, the pairing was exceptional.  The intense and bright fruit flavors are perfect compliments to the fresh flavors of the black bean, jícama, and grilled corn salad.  And like the salad, the Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay was a very pleasing contrast to the creamy, subtle flavors of the pan-seared cod.  This is a pairing well worth your time, effort, and $40 for the Chardonnay.

We were fortunate to share this wonderful meal with our neighbors Aaron and Lena.  We topped the night with a made from scratch banana cream pie while keeping one eye on Cadel Evans capturing the Yellow Jersey in the final time-trial of the Tour de France – leading to the first ever Tour de France win for an Australian – good on ya mate.  The banana cream pie was spectacular, but deserves our full attention in another post.  We will return to this piece of heaven soon.

Recipes

Pan-Seared Cod with Creamy Fennel Ragoût

Ingredients

• 4 slices bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-wide strips
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 fennel bulbs (sometimes called anise; 2 pounds), stalks discarded and bulbs cut lengthwise into 1-inch wedges
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/8 teaspoon black pepper
• 1 3/4 cups low-sodium chicken broth (14 fluid ounces)
• 2/3 cup heavy cream
• 1/4 cup chopped drained sun-dried tomatoes (packed in oil)
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 4 (7-ounce) pieces cod, scrod, or halibut fillet (about 1 inch thick)
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• Garnish: fennel fronds

Preparation

1. Cook bacon in a 10- to 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until slightly crisp, 6 to 8 minutes.
2. Transfer bacon with a slotted spoon to a bowl.
3. Add 1 tablespoon oil to fat in skillet, then cook fennel with salt and pepper over moderate heat, turning occasionally, until lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes.
4. Add broth, cream, tomatoes, and garlic to fennel and cook, partially covered, over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until fennel is tender and cream is slightly thickened, about 20 minutes.
5. While fennel cooks, heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking.
6. Season fillets with salt and pepper, then sauté 4 minutes. Turn over and sauté until just cooked through, about 3 minutes more.
7. Stir mustard and bacon into fennel ragout and season with salt and pepper. Serve cod over fennel ragout.

Black Bean, Jícama, and Grilled Corn Salad

Ingredients

• 2 large ears of corn, husked
• 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• 2 15-ounce cans black beans, rinsed, drained
• 1 cup 1/3-inch dice peeled jicama
• 1/2 cup 1/3-inch dice peeled carrots
• 1/3 cup thinly sliced green onions
• 1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 1/4 cup (packed) chopped fresh basil
• 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• 2 tablespoons orange juice
• 2 1/2 teaspoons grated lime peel
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

Preparation

1. Prepare barbecue (medium-high heat).
2. Brush corn with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Grill corn until tender and brown in spots, turning occasionally, about 10 minutes.
3. Cool slightly. Cut off corn kernels; place in large bowl.
4. Add black beans, jicama, carrots, green onions, cilantro, and basil.
5. Whisk lime juice, orange juice, lime peel, cumin, and remaining 4 tablespoons oil in small bowl.
6. Mix dressing into bean salad. Season generously with salt and pepper.

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig

Venezuelan Arepas with Reina Pepiada and Pollo Mechado Paired with 2009 Benziger Family Winery Carneros Chardonnay

My last assignment in the US Coast Guard was as the Coast Guard Attaché in Venezuela.  I lived in Caracas for three years, travelled throughout Venezuela, and was introduced to a number of great foods.  In general, Venezuelan food is not terribly distinctive (Venezuelans enjoy food from around the world, and like any major metropolitan areas, Caracas features a broad variety of international foods), but there are some real indigenous gems nonetheless.  The best of Venezuelan food comes from the grill (parilla), street food, and special holiday dishes.

The food featured in today’s pairing is a Venezuelan staple – Arepas.  Arepas are the very tasty distant cousin of the hamburger roll (ok, they are not even remotely related, but it is helpful in getting your head around the idea of an arepa).  Arepas are made with corn flower and water, grilled to a slight crisp on the out shell, and cooked through in the oven.  Sliced in half, or slit on one side and opened for stuffing, Arepas are the backbone of Venezuelan street food, and are stuffed with just about anything imaginable.

For this meal, I decided to make two of my favorites for stuffing the arepas; Reina Pepiada and Pollo Mechado.  The easy way to understand reina pepiada is to think of chicken salad with avocados.  The flavor is so intensely satisfying, I am truly surprised I had not experienced this phenomenal combination before living in Venezuela.

Pollo Mechado is similarly simple, and nearly as tasty (just my opinion).  Pollo Mechado is shredded baked (or grilled) chicken which is supported by a sautéed mixture of onions, peppers, and garlic.  The chicken is keeping good company.

Neither the reina pepiada or pollo mechado are particularly strong flavors – think of the warm, pleasant flavors of comfort food – Venezuelan style.  With these mild flavors in mind, I chose the 2009 Benziger Family Carneros Chardonnay with the intent of complimenting the flavors in both arepas while trying to avoid overwhelming them.  The arepas did not require a wine with a high acidity, fruit, or sweetness to form a balance, so I thought the Chardonnay would be a good bet.  And for the record, if you were to do this in true Venezuelan style, the wine would be pushed to the side, and you would open a bien frio polarcita.

The 2009 Benziger Family Carneros Chardonnay is a described by these tasting notes from the Benziger Family Winery:

“Our Carneros Chardonnay is a bright, clean wine with excellent balance of fruit and structure. In this vintage, flavors of ripe peach and pear are followed by notes of soft vanilla. Barrel aging contributes to a round, satisfying mouthfeel with very subtle oak flavor.”

I would have written my own description, but these tasting notes describe it well.  My only additions would be to say that the fruit flavors are moderate, but well balanced with the finishing hints of vanilla.  The oak flavor is similarly subtle and well balanced with the fruit and vanilla flavors.  At $10 per bottle for a wine produced under certified sustainable farming methods, this is an exceptional value.

Chef Sue (my best critic) was extremely happy with both the arepas and the wine.  However, she rated the paring as only “good.”  Chef Sue said she would have preferred something with a bit more acidity, or bolder fruit (or both).  Personally, I was very satisfied with the pairing.  While I will agree with Chef Sue that the wine did not particularly enhance any of the elements of the arepas, I would emphasize that the wine did not overpower or detract from the mild flavors of the arepas.  Too much of anything (acid, fruit, sweetness) could have easily overwhelmed the arepas.

Overall, Chef Sue and I declared the pairing a success, and will certainly be making more gastronomic visits to memory lane in Venezuela.

Recipes

Arepas

Ingredients

• 2 cups pre-cooked cornmeal flour (Harina P.A.N. is the best)
• Pinch of salt
• 2 cups boiling water
• Vegetable oil

Method

1. Preheat oven to 400ºF.
2. In a large bowl, mix together the cornmeal and salt. Pour in the boiling water and mix with a spoon until fully combined and without lumps. If it is too wet and sticks to you fingers, gradually add more flower. If it is too dry, add more water. Cover and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes.
3. Wet your hands and make a ball out of some dough. Press the ball into a patty. The goal is to get a patty that tis 3 to 4 inches in diameter and about 1/2 inch thick. Keeping your hands wet makes the process much easier.
4. Heat a couple tablespoons of vegetable oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Sauté the patties to form a light brown crust and flip to brown the opposite side.
5. When all the patties are browned, transfer them to a sheet pan and bake in the oven for about 20 minutes or until they sound a bit hollow when you tap them.
6. Slice the arepas in half lengthwise, or slit about half way to form a pocket. Scoop out the remaining moist/loose dough in the middle, stuff and serve.

Reina Pepiada

Ingredients

• 1 lb skinless chicken breasts
• 3 avocados (diced)
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 1/2 medium onion diced
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation

1. Preheat oven to 400
2. Season chicken breasts with salt and pepper, place on sheet pan and place in oven for 9 minutes.
3. Turn the chicken and continue in oven for another 9 minutes.
4. Remove the chicken from the oven and allow to cool.
5. When cool enough to handle, shred the chicken breasts.
6. Combine and mix the shredded chicken, avocados, mayonnaise, and onion. Fundamentally, this is chicken salad with the addition of avocados. Feel free to vary the amount of mayonnaise to achieve the consistency you prefer. (Add some cilantro to kick up the flavor a bit – I love it, but it is not authentic Venezuelan)
7. Season to taste and stuff into arepas.

Pollo Mechado

Ingredients

• 1 lb skinless chicken breasts
• 1 medium onion diced
• 1 red bell pepper finely diced
• 1 1/2 tablespoons minced garlic
• 4 tablespoons vegetable oil
• Salt and pepper to taste.

Preparation

1. Preheat oven to 400
2. Season chicken breasts with salt and pepper, place on sheet pan and place in oven for 9 minutes.
3. Turn the chicken and continue in oven for another 9 minutes.
4. Remove the chicken from the oven and allow to cool.
5. When cool enough to handle, shred the chicken breasts.
6. In a sauté pan or skillet, sauté onions, pepper and garlic in two tablespoons of vegetable oil
7. When onions are translucent, add the chicken and two more tablespoons of oil. Reduce heat to medium and continue to sauté for 2 minutes stirring will to combine all ingredients.
8. Season to taste and stuff into arepas.  Top with grated queso quayunes, queso fresco, or other mild/soft white cheese.

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig

Lamb Spinach Ricotta Ravioli in a White Wine Mushroom Cream Sauce Paired with 2009 14 Hands Washington State Chardonnay

I’m afraid the description of this pairing will not follow the normal form.  First, the pairing was supposed to be with a 2009 Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay – but Chef Sue and I drank it while preparing the meal – oops.  Second, I don’t have a recipe – this meal (and pairing) started as an idea and was a “cook on the fly” type experience sticking within the broad idea for the meal.  The dish is not difficult, so an idea was sufficient.  This is a common experience for our weekends at our secret Southern Maryland waterfront lair – no rules, just ideas.

Although I will not be providing a recipe, this was not that complicated with the exception of all the home made ingredients which include ricotta, lamb sausage, and the pasta.  If you are not prepared to whip up those parts in your kitchen, make a substitution from the grocery store and butcher – it won’t hurt my feelings.  Between my description and the photographs, I am confident you can recreate this wonderful dish.

In the last year, Chef Sue has tilted over the edge and decided that we should be making our own cheese.  Being a Homer Simpson-like fan of cheese, I don’t complain.  And because this is Chef Sue’s little running science project, all I have to do is sit back and enjoy the fruits of her labor.  Not a bad deal.  This dish started with Chef Sue making fresh ricotta.  Yum.  There is a world of difference between home made ricotta and the stuff that comes in the plastic tub.  Added to this cheesy goodness is some garlic sautéed spinach and some freshly ground lamb combined with some fennel and ground mushrooms to form the loose lamb sausage.

Next comes the pasta for creating the ravioli – just follow the pictures – easy stuff.  Once the pasta is ready, stuff it with the spinach-ricotta-lamb sausage mixture, seal it with an egg wash, cut to shape and it is ready for the swimming pool.

Finally, Chef Sue topped the cooked ravioli in a white wine mushroom cream sauce.  We used dried mushrooms, so the soaking water was a key ingredient in the sauce.  Plate, garnish (parsley and shaved parmesan), and enjoy.

The flavors in this dish are the ones that make you smile involuntarily.  Earthy mushroom, creamy smoothness from the sauce and the fresh ricotta, a little gaminess from the lamb and a touch of bitter from the spinach and garlic.  A other-worldly mixture and balance of flavors.  Add a touch of truffle oil or truffle salt to achieve interplanetary travel.

I have to be honest and tell you that it has been over a month since we prepared this meal, and I don’t recall the specific flavors of the wine (maybe the fault of that first bottle of Cakebread).  But I am confident in saying the wine was a delight and the pairing a real treat.  Lacking a crystal clear memory, here are a few notes from the people at 14 hands:

“14 Hands Chardonnay offers bright aromas of apples and pears with a touch of caramel and spice. Elegant fruit flavors give way to hints of butter and coconut, ending with a juicy finish. Balanced and approachable, this wine can stand alone as an aperitif or partners well with buttered fish, grilled pork or pasta with cream sauce.”

Sounds about right to me – and pasta with cream sauce – YES!  The fruit and buttery finish I hazily recall as prominent and key to working well with the ravioli and cream sauce.  At $12 a bottle, this wine definitely falls into the category of excellent value.

My apologies for the less than precise rendering of this pairing, but every once in a while it is good to use your imagination.  Maybe one of these days I will post a pairing with nothing but photos and let you figure it out – now there is a challenge!

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig

Udon Noodle Soup with Thai Curry Paired with 2008 Frei Brothers Reserve Russian River Valley Chardonnay

For the faithful followers of my humble little blog (thanks to all of you!), it will come as no surprise that I speak frankly about the recipes, wines, and pairings.  This honesty unquestionably extends to the less than pleasant surprises as well as the happy coincidences.  I do this in the firm belief that we learn as much from our failures as we do from our successes.  And with that prelude, on with the story.

This pairing occurred on the Friday night of Memorial Day weekend 2011.  Chef Sue was able to get away from the office early so we could extend the holiday weekend.  Chef Sue was able to leave DC for our secret Potomac lair a day in advance of my arrival.  Before I left DC, I selected four wines from the Cavernous Corl Wine Cellar, thankful I could remember the cypher lock code and my DNA had not been altered since the last update of the biometric security system.  I called Chef Sue and gave her my selections and asked that she consider some pairing dishes.

Chef Sue was inspired and decided on a Japanese – Thai fusion of udon noodle soup mashed up with a thai red curry coconut sauce with chicken.  This dish was selected for pairing with 2008 Frei Brothers Reserve Russian River Valley Chardonnay.  When Chef Sue announced the pairing, my mind started quietly raising the red flags – silently of course.  In general, Chardonnay does not have the big fruit, sweetness and acidity to stand up to a spicy dish.  Further, I remain convinced that mixing oaked wines with spice can work on the rare occaision, but can also introduce some undesired flavor surprises – I prefer to avoid food and wine surprises.

With the red curry paste and coconut milk certain to dominate the palate, wines with tropical notes like pineapple, mango, peaches, apricots, would pair well with these strong flavors.  A balancing acidity is also important to standup to the acidity of this dish, and sweetness balances the heat nicely.  I would have chosen a Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Grigio, a dry Rosé, or a Proseco.

The wine did not turn out to be a train wreck.  Quite the opposite, it was very enjoyable.  The 2008 Frei Brothers Reserve Russian River Valley Chardonnay was opened while Chef Sue was cooking…thirst took over.  This Chardonnay is soft and complex with dominant flavors of green apple, a buttery feel, and toasted nuts.  In other words it can be likened to a freshly baked apple crisp in a bottle.  Nice.  Unfortunately when faced with the daunting aggressiveness of the Thai red curry, the Chardonnay became a wall flower.  It added nothing with respect to the pairing – not the fault of the wine, but rather a faulty choice (sorry Chef Sue).

The pummeling of the wine was made worse by a tragic wrong turn with the recipe.  When preparing this dish, Chef Sue followed the directions on the tiny little can of Thai red curry paste (you’ve seen those little 4 oz cans slinking around the international section of the grocery) that directed the use of all 4 ounces of the paste.  Oh my!  Maybe a translation error (and there were a few of those on the can)? After a few bites Chef Sue and I looked at each other with the mutual knowledge that the nuclear waste level heat of this dish was sure to conclude with unpleasant consequences.  Don’t let the pretty pictures fool you.  The piper will be paid!

Oddly enough, as we sat down to enjoy this fire festival, Man vs. Food was playing on the television – an episode which required the host to eat a dozen chicken wings lathered in “shut up” sauce, complete the challenge in 10 minutes, and keep it down for another 5.  You know things are going bad when you have to don a pair of latex surgical gloves to eat a meal.  I’m happy to report that he suffered far more than we did.

Have no fear my friends.  The recipe at the end of this post has been recalibrated to the human palate.  We have not yet gone back to the kitchen to validate it, but I am confident the rebirth of this fusion plate will be quite enjoyable.  I stick with my wine pairing recommendation.  Save the 2008 Frei Brothers Reserve Russian River Valley Chardonnay for another day – it has potential and is a good value.

Between crabbing, cookouts, sailing and other traditional Memorial Day weekend festivities, we will be doing more cooking and more pairing.  I hope to report some great success rather than lessons learned.

Recipe

Ingredients

• 2 packages (8oz) precooked udon noodles
• 1 large onion sliced
• 8 oz. shitake mushrooms
• 1 chicken breast (about 8 oz.) sliced into 1/4 inch strips laterally
• 2 tablespoons Thai red curry paste
• 1 can coconut milk
• 1/2 gallon chicken broth
• 4 tablespoons fish sauce
• 3/4 chopped fresh cilantro
• 1/4 cup miren
• 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
• 3/4 cup sliced green onions for garnish
• Olive oil for sauté
• Salt to taste

Preparation

1. In a large skillet or medium pot, add the curry paste, coconut milk and chicken broth. Allow to simmer while the balance of the recipe is prepared. Stir occasionally. The mixture should be brought to a boil just before adding to the rest of the ingredients. At about the 5 minute mark, add fish sauce, cilantro, ginger and miren.
2. Sauté sliced onion in a skillet with a couple tablespoons of olive oil. When translucent yet firm, place in a large bowl (the bowl needs to be large enough to fit everything in the recipe).
3. Sauté shitake mushrooms in the same skillet as the onions. When done, add to the bowl with the onions.
4. Sauté chicken in the same skillet once the mushrooms are done. Add to the bowl with onions and mushrooms.
5. Add precooked udon noodles to the bowl.
6. With any luck, your curry paste - coconut milk - chicken broth is at a boil now. Don’t let it boil long - just get it to a boil, and you are done.
7. Add the broth mixture to the bowl, cover and let sit for five minutes.
8. Plate to bowls and garnish with green onions.

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig