Bobotie with Saffron Rice Paired with 2009 Glenelly The Glass Collection Stellenbosch South Africa Cabernet Sauvignon

Bobotie (pronounced with emphasis on the second syllable and the “tie” as “tee”) is a wonderful South African interpretation of meat loaf.  In my mind, meatloaf is a great cold weather comfort food.  But if you have grown tired of the same old uninspired meatloaf, this recipe is a fruit and curry filled take on the traditional.

Bobotie differs from the average meatloaf by adding fruit (raisins, apples, apricots), curry, and a wash of eggs to cover the dish with a pleasant texture and added layer of flavor.  This variant of meatloaf is a wonderful blend of subtle flavors that make it welcome change to your meatloaf repertoire.  My interpretation of South African Bobotie features ground bison and a tablespoon of Trinidad pepper sauce to add some kick and yet another layer of flavor.

For the pairing, my first decision point was to choose a South African wine.  Next, I decided to take the route of creating a balance in the pairing through contrast rather than complement.  I decided to go with a South African Cabernet Sauvignon and settled on the 2009 Glenelly The Glass Collection Stellenbosch South Africa Cabernet Sauvignon.  With a 90 point rating from Robert Parker, it is a classic Cabernet from South Africa but has a bit more of a polished style than others I've tried. Very balanced from start to finish with plenty of plush fruit, and firm acidity corralling the dark fruit.  This is a food friendly wine.

My hopes for balance through contrast were rewarded.  The dark plush fruits added depth of flavor to the brighter fruits in the dish, and the acidity balanced the richness nicely.  At $15, the 2009 Glenelly The Glass Collection Stellenbosch South Africa Cabernet Sauvignon is a great value.  With slightly coarse tannins, I recommend decanting to let the wine open, or better yet, save it in your collection for a couple of years.  It is sure to mature nicely.

Recipe

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 medium onions, diced
• 2 pounds ground bison
• 2 apples pealed and grated
• 1 cup milk
• 2 slices thick-sliced bread
• 1/2 cup golden raisins
• 1/2 cup almonds coarsely chopped in a food processor
• 1 tablespoon Trinidad Pepper Sauce
• 1/3 cup finely chopped dried apricots
• 1 tablespoon curry powder
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1 tablespoon brown sugar
• Juice from 1/2 of a small lemon
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 3 large eggs
• 3 bay leaves
• Butter

Preparation

1. Cut bread into 1 inch cubes and soak in milk.
2. Brown the bison in a hot skillet over medium high heat with one tablespoon olive oil. When browned, transfer to a bowl and set aside.
3. Sauté onions and minced garlic with one tablespoon olive oil until soft.
4. Add curry, brown sugar, salt and pepper, and lemon juice and continue to cook for two minutes.
5. Transfer onions to the bowl with ground bison.
6. Lightly squeeze milk from the bread and add to the bowl with the bison. Do not add the milk.
7. Fold in one egg, grated apple, raisins, almonds, pepper sauce, and apricots.
8. Coat a casserole dish with butter, and add the mixture.
9. Bake in a preheated oven at 350 degrees F for 25 minutes.
10. Beat 2 eggs with the milk used for soaking the bread.
11. Pour eggs and milk over the casserole, add several pads of butter and the bay leaves to the top of the casserole.
12. Return to the oven for another 25 minutes or until the top is golden brown.
13. Remove from oven and allow to rest for 10 minutes.
14. Remove the bay leaves, cut into squares, and serve over saffron rice.

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig

Grilled New York Strip Steak with Craig’s Bourbon Rub, Grilled Garden Fresh Vegetables Paired with 2007 Mayo Family Winery Napa Valley Random Ridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

Labor Day, the official end of summer in the U.S. has come and gone.  Like many people, part of our holiday weekend included well spent time in front of the grill.  Although Labor day marks the official end of summer, it should not mark the end of your grilling season.  Quite the contrary.  With football season underway and the first week of the NFL schedule capped off by a spectacular and record crushing win by my beloved New England Patriots over the Miami Dolphins, we now enter the serious tailgate grilling season.  If you want to take your grilling experience to a new level, my bourbon rub is a tasty way to do so.

I have to admit that “bourbon rub” is a bit of a misnomer.  On the other hand, it is not a barbeque sauce either.  It is somewhere between the two – it is a barbeque paste.  The word paste just doesn’t have the same appeal as a “rub” so I am taking a bit of culinary creative license…because I can.

When you look at the seasonings in this concoction, it looks like a rub…until you get to the brown sugar and bourbon.  These two ingredients rule out use as a “rub.”  If you use this as a rub, the bourbon will give you a fun moment of pyrotechnics as the bourbon ignites.  As the bourbon ignites, it caramelizes the sugar, and if left on for the full grilling time, will go beyond caramelization to a full-on char.  For this reason, I am providing specific directions for when and how to use the rub.

But before we get to that, we need to discuss meat.  The best way to buy meat is from a butcher.  Not the butcher at your local grocery store (there are exceptions) who cuts the meat, wraps it up and places it in the display cooler.  I mean a real butcher where you can pick a slab of meat, have the butcher trim it to your specifications then cut the steaks to your favorite thickness.  Personally, I prefer the Barney Rubble size steaks – 1 1/2 inches thick or even a touch more.  Why?  Thickly cut steaks allow you to get a nice sear, grill for an appropriate time, and leave the center a beautiful and tasty medium rare.  Honestly, it should be a criminal offense to cut a thin steak, grill it until uniformly brown throughout, and serve it as a substitute for shoe leather.  I cringe when I hear someone order a steak well done.  Why bother?

With my “well done” rant out of the way, lets talk about the appropriate use of Craig’s Bourbon Rub (paste).  First I will explain my formula for grilling Barney Rubble sized steak.  Heat the grill so when you set your first steak on the grates you hear that wonderful sizzling that lets you know the fun is underway.  I set my timer to two minutes and flip the steaks three times so the steak is on the grill for 10 minutes.  But you say “three flips multiplied by two minutes does not add up to 10 minutes Craig!”  I will prove that it does.  Place your steaks on the grill, close the lid, pick up your glass of wine, take a joyful sip, then turn on your timer.  When the timer runs down, take another sip of your wine, put the glass down, turn off the barking timer, walk over to the grill, lift the lid, flip the steaks and repeat the process.  This leisurely approach to enjoying your wine, fiddling with your timer, and maybe a kiss for your spouse will account for the missing two minutes.

Now the critical part – applying Craig’s Bourbon Rub.  The rub should be applied at the last flip and will be on the grill for just two minutes to avoid going from caramelized to char.  Specifically, when you get to the last flip, take the steaks off the grill.  THIS IS IMPORTANT!!!  With honest to god real bourbon in the recipe, you do not want to risk a flame-up while you have your hands over the grill.  With the steaks off the grill apply the “rub” to both sides of the steak using the back of a spoon to compress the “rub” onto both surfaces.  Send the steaks back to the grill, and flip after one minute to get good caramelization on both sides.

For the pairing, I ventured to the depths of the Corl wine vault and selected a 2007 Mayo Family Winery Napa Valley Random Ridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.  Here are some notes from the winemaker:

“Officially this vineyard is in Napa Valley. However, it really sits on the very top of the mountain that divides Sonoma Valley from Napa Valley. The mountain grown grapes give us obscenely rich, intense wine that is stuffed full of dark berry and cassis flavors backed up by a structure that begs for cellaring. Very little is produced in part because yields are so low in the vineyard, but also because fruit from this vineyard is very difficult to come by. Fortunately, our relationship with the owner/grower is quite solid. Enjoy this wine with a medium rare, well seared rib eye.”

Although the winemaker suggests this wine begs for cellaring, we found it silky smooth and ready to drink now.  The dark berry flavors were a wonderful flavor compliment to the bourbon rubbed NY strip steak, and the body was a perfect match.  Steak and Cabernet Sauvignon is a natural pairing – like Tom Brady and Wes Welker – you just can’t lose!

This wine is available online from Mayo Family Winery.  This is a small Sonoma winery that produces spectacular wine.  You will not find it at your local wine store, so give them a visit and enjoy some fantastic wine.

Recipe

Craig’s Bourbon Rub, errr Paste

Ingredients

This recipe provides enough "rub" for two to three steaks

• 1/2 cup brown sugar
• 3 teaspoon chili powder
• 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon fennel seed
• 1 teaspoon rosemary leaves
• 2 tablespoons bourbon
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Preparation

1. Grind fennel seed and dried rosemary leaves in a coffee grinder.
2. Combine all dry ingredients in a bowl and mix well.
3. Add bourbon (I used Maker's Mark) and mix into a paste.
4. Cover and refrigerate for at least one hour.
5. When you are ready to grill your steaks, season with salt and pepper, and begin grilling using my secret timing formula.  Apply the paste (OFF THE GRILL) to both sides for the last two minutes of the grilling time making sure each side gets one minute of flame time.
6. Happy grilling!

Grilled Vegetables

For the gilled vegetables, I selected a variety of vegetables from the local farm stand that included three different colors of eggplant, potatoes, red pepper, and onion.  I cut the vegetables into bite size chunks, placed them in a foil packet with a pad of butter and seasoned with salt and pepper.  Place the packets to the side of the grill (off direct heat) when you put the steaks on.  Grilling in the tent for 10 minutes makes for nicely al dente veggie morsels that maintain some texture to match nicely with the steak.  If they are too al dente for you, just leave them on the grill for a few extra minutes while you let the steaks rest before serving.

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig

Grilled Flank Steak Marinated in Balsamic Vinegar with Fresh Garden Vegetables on Garlic and Truffle Focaccia Paired with 2007 Hall Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Notwithstanding golf obsession, summer is all about grilling and locally grown fresh produce.  If you are looking to add some variety to your summer grilling adventures, you have come to the right place.  This creation of Chef Sue’s is sure to be a winner with the anxious onlookers standing around your grill.  Chef Sue’s tasty combination of focaccia, fresh vegetables and marinated flank stake have a wonderful depth of flavor and freshness that will gain the envy of your grilling mates.

While this recipe is quite easy, the depth of flavor from each of component stands out brilliantly.  First, we have to start with the marinated flank steak.  The balsamic vinegar adds some nice acidity and the first of many flavor layers (note; balsamic vinegar can be treacherous territory with respect to wine pairing – fortunately no problems here) .  Next, the fresh vegetables (grape tomatoes from Chef Sue’s garden, and onions and zucchini from the local farm stand) add wonderful summer freshness.  The combination of gorgonzola and mozzarella cheese add, eh, cheesy goodness.  Finally, the addition of truffle oil ties all the flavors together with a wonderful earthy bass note.  All these wonderful flavors are supported by a beautifully puffy and equally tasty garlic truffle focaccia.

With respect to the wine pairing, this dish offers a number of possibilities.  Certainly a Chardonnay would blend well with the truffle, garlic, and vegetable combination.  We decided to focus the pairing on the flank steak and went with the 2007 Hall Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.  We were delighted.  The inviting deep ruby color and rich aromatics of cassis, roasted espresso bean and dark ripe plum follow through with flavors of blackberry, and hints of minerality that linger.  While not an ideal flavor construction for the “fresh vegetable” aspect of the food, it danced beautifully with the flank steak and produced an overall effect that accentuated the flavors of both the food and wine.  We will likely give this paring a another go with a Chardonnay or a light bodied Pinot Noir– just because we can.  And other than the flank steak marinade and the focaccia starter, this meal takes very little forethought.

Recipes

Balsamic Marinated Grilled Flank Steak

Ingredients

• 2 1/2 pounds flank steak
• 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon basil
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 2 cloves fresh minced garlic
• 1/2 teaspoon fennel seed

Preparation

1. Marinate flank steak with all ingredients for at least 4 hours.
2. Grill steak to medium rare - about 6 minutes per side. This may very depending on the temperature of your grill.

Focaccia Starter

Ingredients

• 1 package dry yeast
• 1 cup of warm water
• 3 tablespoons flour

Preparation

1. Combine ingredients and let set for at least 4 hours. If you have more time, that is better. You can let the starter set for up to two days.

Focaccia

Ingredients

• 2 cups all purpose flour
• Focaccia starter
• 1 package dry yeast
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 3/4 - 1 cup of water (depending on humidity - higher humidity = less water)
• 2 teaspoons minced garlic
• 2 tablespoons truffle oil
• 1 sliced zucchini
• 1 sliced onion
• 12 grape tomatoes sliced in half
• 3/4 cup gorgonzola cheese
• 3/4 cup mozzarella cheese

Preparation

1. Combine flour, yeast, herbs, salt, starter and 1/2 cup of water. Mix and continue to add up to an additional 1/2 cup of water or until the dough becomes sticky - whichever comes first.
2. Let rest for one hour.
3. Dust preparation surface with flour and kneed dough for 5 minutes.
4. Cover with towel and let rest for one to three hours.
5. Preheat oven to 500 degrees (with pizza stone in the oven)
6. Stretch dough and place on a pizza stone and brush with truffle oil
7. Add zucchini, grape tomatoes, onion, and cheeses.
8. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes.
9. Cut the focaccia to desired serving sizes then top with thinly sliced flank steak, fresh off the grill, being sure to cut across the grain.
10. Just for fun, drizzle a bit more truffle oil over the top of your creation, the aromas will draw everyone to the table.

With the 2 1/2 pound flank steak Chef Sue grilled, we were left with ample leftovers.  I have a great recommendation for this tasty hunk-o-meat.  See my post on “Open Faced Steak Sandwich Topped with Sautéed Celery Root and Leeks Paired with 2006 Benziger Family Winery Sonoma County Merlot.”

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig

Braised Short Ribs in a Red Wine Reduction with Rustic Egg Noodles and Red Cabbage Paired with 2006 Louis M. Martini Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

A few weeks ago, Chef Sue decided to reclaim her kitchen for the evening and planned this wine pairing.  As is always the case with Chef Sue’s creations, this was a spectacular meal.  Braised short ribs are not a difficult meal to prepare, but it takes some time.  With three hours in the oven alone, this meal takes a little planning (time management) but is well worth the wait.

Braised short ribs are a real treat, and the vegetable pure – red wine sauce makes this a truly flavorful feast.  To top it off, the 2006 Louis M. Martini Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon chosen by Chef Sue was a wonderful match.  This wine is best when decanted to let it open up a bit.  You will be rewarded with ripe and sweet black cherries, a touch of dark chocolate, and subtle notes of vanilla and oak.  These wonderfully complimentary flavors were equally complimentary to the earthy flavors of the fall-off-the-bone delicious short ribs.

Adding to the gastronomic fun were a base of rustic egg noodles and sautéed red cabbage.  The noodles were a nice complimentary texture and the red cabbage added some fun color.  I’m not a huge fan of the red cabbage, but in combination with the rest of the players, I found a happy place.

Recipes

Braised Short Ribs in a Red Wine Reduction

Ingredients

• 4 short ribs with bones

• Extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 large onion roughly cut (medium large pieces)
• 2 celery stalks cut to 1/2 inch lengths
• 2 peeled carrots cut lengthwise then cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• 1 cups tomato paste
• 2 cups red wine
• 2 cups water

• 1 bunch of tied fresh thyme

• 6 bay leaves
• Sea salt

• Pepper to taste

Preparation

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
2. Season each short rib with sea salt.
3. Coat the bottom of a Dutch oven (or other large pot) with olive oil and bring to a high heat.
4. Add the short ribs and brown all sides.
5. While the short ribs are browning, puree all the vegetables and garlic in a food processor.
6. When the short ribs are browned, remove and set aside.
7. Add pureed vegetables to the pot just vacated by the short ribs.
8. Season the vegetables and brown until they are dark and bits are forming a moist coating/crust on the bottom of the pot - about 5 minutes or so.
9. Scrape the pot to release the vegetable coating and add the tomato paste.
10. Brown the tomato paste for 4 minutes or so then add the wine and scrape again.
11. Lower the heat and allow the mixture to reduce by half.
12. Return the short ribs to the Dutch oven and add 2 cups of water or enough so the water just covers the short ribs.
13. Add the thyme and bay leaves. Cover and place in the preheated oven for 3 hours. Check periodically and add more water, if needed.
14. At the mid way point, turn the ribs over.
15. With 20 minutes to go, remove the lid to let the sauce reduce.
16. Plate with sauce generously drizzled over the short ribs.

Rustic Egg Noodles

Ingredients

• 2 cups all-purpose flour

• 2 cups semolina flour

• 1 pinch salt

• 6 large eggs

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/2 onion roughly diced
• grated parmesan cheese

Preparation

1. Add flower to the bowl of your electric mixer (with dough hook)
2. Start the mixer to medium speed and add eggs one at a time.
3. Add olive oil and salt.
4. Let the mixer do it's thing until the dough is smooth, firm and dry. You can adjust the texture with water or the addition of flour.
5. Remove the dough from the mixer, wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Let sit for an hour.
6. Remove dough from plastic and roll out to your preferred thickness.
7. Use a pizza cutter to make random and fun shapes…be creative.
8. Sauté onion in a bit of olive oil and butter until tender.
9. Add your creative pasta bits and sauté until cooked through.
10. Plate and top with parmesan cheese

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig

Carne Adobada: Grilled Adobo-Marinated Skirt Steak Paired with 2008 Robert Mondavi Private Selection Cabernet Sauvignon

Chef Sue was on a role yesterday – sending me a number of recipes to add to the batting order for upcoming wine pairings.  She found some dishes that I am very excited about.  Not being one to waste time in such matters, we went straight to work last night.  After picking a recipe and a pairing for last night, I asked Chef Sue “so who is cooking tonight?”  She replied “us.”  That didn’t work out exactly to plan.  Chef Sue loves the kitchen.  Not only does she enjoy creating wonderful meals, she finds her time in the kitchen as a creative and therapeutic release.  I understand this and gladly took up my role as photographer.

When we selected Carne Adobada: Grilled Adobo-Marinated Skirt Steak I was very excited; the recipe made my mouth water well before the wonderful aromas began filling the kitchen.  However, I was very skeptical of the wine pairing – a 2008 Robert Mondavi Private Selection Cabernet Sauvignon (the recipe and pairing came from Epicurious.com).  Chef Sue and I lived in Northern California for a couple years in the mid-1980s.  Living on the meager salary of a US Coast Guard Ensign, we spent many weekends visiting Napa Valley wineries – a cheap way to make an enjoyable weekend.  In these days, my impression of Robert Mondavi winery was equated to a jug wine.  I can’t say what has transpired since this time, but the impression has remained, and wines from Robert Mondavi rarely (ok, never) make it to our table.

My second level of skepticism was that of pairing a Cab with the spicy Carne Adobada.  I was afraid that a Cab would be too heavy and just not feel right with the adobo.  Gratefully, my skepticism was unfounded and we had a great meal and pleasing pairing.

The extremely flavorful adobo marinade (with a portion reserved to use as a salsa when plating) coupled with the smoky flavors added from the grill made the flank steak a truly tasty centerpiece for the meal.  The Mondavi Cabernet was not as heavy as I feared, and the dark fruit flavors played nicely with the high notes of the adobo and guacamole.  Overall, it was very well balanced.

In the end, I concluded that it would be a good idea for me to check my biases toward Robert Mondavi wines (and others I had paced in the jug wine category) and let the wines speak for themselves.  At under $10, the 2008 Robert Mondavi Private Selection Cabernet Sauvignon is a good value and a good pairing wine.

Here is the link to the Carne Adobada: Grilled Adobo-Marinated Skirt Steak recipe at Epicurious.com.  I give this recipe two big thumbs up and definitely recommend it for your summer grilling season.

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig

Taste and Flavor for Food and Wine Pairing

The photograph leading off this post is simply gratuitous.  Unlike most posts, this one is more about words than photos.  So if you are just looking for the pretty photographs of great food, you can turn back now.  However, if you want to read about taste and flavor, read on.

My purposes for Craig’s Grape Adventure are several including a great excuse to enjoy great food and wine, explore food and wine pairings I have not yet experienced, uncover the “why” of food and wine pairing that creates a sensation greater than the sum of it’s parts, and of course to enjoy making it all look good through photography. The purpose of this article is to begin discussing our experience of taste and flavor to lay the foundation for understanding why food and wine pairings work – or don’t.

For those of you who already have a solid understanding of this, I apologize – like my good friends who enjoy all the pretty pictures, you too can turn back now. However, among my group of friends and others who have written to me, I know that the understanding of pairings vary dramatically; from those who are eager learners to those who are more skilled than I am. I trust everyone will find a grain of useful information. To begin the discussion I want to focus on taste and flavor. While some argue the distinction between taste and flavor is a matter of splitting hairs, I believe there is good reason to distinguish and hope to make the case here.

We are all aware of the five basic tastes; sweetness, bitterness, sourness, saltiness and the less well understood and more recent acknowledgement in western cuisine – umami. And this story of tastes is a debate that has not yet ended. Consider the flavor of piquance that comes from the Spanish word “picante” which reflects our sensation of spiciness – as in spicy hot – a taste with roots in Chinese, Indian, and Japanese cuisine. Personally, I like the expanded definition of tastes; it gives us more and better ways to describe our experience. For my less than scientific purposes, I will admit all six.

Because umami is less well understood in Western culture, let me take just a moment to talk about it. Umami comes from the Japanese and means a pleasant savory taste. Some research suggests that rather than a distinct taste, umami refers to a distinctive quality or completeness of flavor which in the West we would generally describe as savory or simply delicious. Personally, I generally use it as a declaration of particularly delicious food like a steak fresh off the grill when I exclaim “ooooooh mommy!” Umami is common among proteins, like the NY strip steak I just seared and grilled to perfection, and vegetables – think of ripe tomatoes, eggplant, fish, mushrooms, soy sauce, and spinach. When you think of these foods, you can imagine the mild and pleasing taste that is difficult to describe. Just thinking about it starts the salivation and conjures flavors concentrated in the back of the mouth.

While on the subject of umami, a good question is whether we experience umami in wine. The answer is yes! But unfortunately it is not commonplace. Umami develops in wines that are at the peak of maturity and quality and typically appear in wines that have been treated with extreme care and involve artisanal methods such as barrel or cuve fermentation, malolactic fermentation, extended barrel development, bottling with no filtration, and aging in temperature and humidity controlled cellars. Chances of experiencing umami in wine increase with bottle aged wines in the three to ten year range.

The debate of umami and wine continues to rage – mostly because of the chemical-receptor processes involved (too deep for me!), but I am confident I have experienced it. A recent umami experience with umami in both the wine and the food came with my Ghost Block Cabernet Sauvignon pairing with lamb from the Decanting Napa Valley cookbook. That was a serious ooooh mommy moment. Finally, don’t expect to find umami flavors in young fresh wines. These wines focus on the tastes that generally do not include umami. When it comes to umami and wine, think of mature rather than fresh.

When we experience food, these basic tastes are just the start. Other strong contributors to our experience include smell, texture, temperature and the visual component. I won’t dwell on the visual component, but I am confident we have all had the pleasure of a beautiful dish (or not so much) that affected our expectations and therefore influenced our judgment of the flavor.  Now we get to the hear of the matter; the difference between taste and flavor. Taste refers to the receptors that send a signal to the brain. Flavors are the more complex combination of all these additional components. In other words, when you take your first bite of a perfectly prepared and plated foie gras, the combination of appearance, aroma, texture, taste, and temperature all contribute to your experience and judgment of flavor. It is this integration of the senses that compose the flavor. This helps explain why we describe wine in terms of flavors (fruit, citrus, acidity, earth, fresh, dark, deep, spice, and so on) rather than taste. Another way to think about it is understanding taste as physical (bitter, sour, salty, sweet, umami) and flavor is the sum of our perceptions from all these tastes plus the aroma, texture, temperature, and appearance. Flavor is cognitive – meaning it is the recognition that happens after the taste signals are transmitted. Taste is a finite chemically induced piece of information, while flavor is an infinite mental construct which can also include intangibles of memory and place such as that bite of lobster macaroni and cheese that takes you back fondly to a New England dockside food shack with lobster boats bobbing in the distance.

To wrap up this first installment of the “stuff” that informs our choices of food and wine pairing, the conclusion is that flavors are complex and infinite. The good news is that with an infinite (ok, maybe almost infinite) set of flavors and flavor combinations, we have lots of room for making food and wine pairing an extremely pleasurable experience. In future posts we will look at flavor descriptions, flavor and aroma, and some of the rules of thumb that help us understand why pairings work – or don’t.

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig

Lamb and Cauliflower Purée Paired with 2006 Ghost Block Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

As promised in the preview, I am back to share all the tasty details of this pairing.  First, I want to note that I deviated a bit from the original recipe out of necessity.  The full title of the recipe from the Decanting Napa Valley cookbook is “Spiced New Zealand Lamb Loin Fennel Frawns, White Pepper Foam, Cauliflower Purée.”  My decision to prepare this dish was a bit last minute based on a welcome surprise visit by Photo Buddy John (John A Downey II Photography) who also served as the guest photographer for this pairing.

Due to the last minute decision, the lead role of New Zealand Lamb Loin was adeptly played by a gorgeous Lamb Shank.  The supporting role of White Pepper Foam was omitted due to the lack of lecithin and a failed attempt to use unflavored gelatin in place of the lecithin.  Otherwise, the recipe was played according to script.

The Food

This was a wonderfully balanced dish.  The unique gamey flavors of the lamb were balanced by the fennel and in particular the lemon vinaigrette dressed fennel frawns perched atop the medium cooked lamb.  Prior to going into the oven, the lamb was coated in a spice mixture of fennel seeds, bay leaf, coriander and salt.  After a quick searing, the lamb headed for the oven and was brought to an internal temperature of 140 then left to rest for about 20 minutes as the cauliflower purée was finished.

The tasting team (Chef Sue, Golf Buddy Steve, Photographer Buddy John, and Formerly of Austin Dawn) all had high praises for the dish.  Across the board, we agreed that the most pleasing bite included a small bit of everything; lamb, fennel, fennel frawns, and cauliflower purée.  It is clearly a recipe designed to have everything play harmoniously in a single mouthwatering bite.  Chef Sue was particularly enamored with the cauliflower exclaiming “I could make a meal out of this alone.”  Formerly of Austin Dawn  was the big surprise of the night.  Dawn is not a fan of lamb although she has tried it in many forms.  In this case, she was literally dancing in her seat.  Follow this link to hear about it in her own words.

Normally when discussing the dish, I pick out the key flavors that are the headliners and those that are playing a supporting role – important when it comes time to discuss the pairing.  In this case I am at a loss – this was a symphony of glorious harmonies.  The lamb was balanced by the fennel and vinaigrette, which was complemented perfectly by the creamy sweetness of the cauliflower purée.  In addition to the harmony of flavors, the contrasting textures made each bite a true pleasure.

The Wine

The recipe was paired with a 2006 Ghost Block Estate Cabernet Sauvignon.  In a word it was spectacular!  Of course I have more words, but first lets see what the winemaker says about this wine.

“The 2006 vintage has elegant aromas of cherry, blackberry, spice and roses. The palate confirms the nose with flavors of ripe blackberry, chocolate-covered cherries and coffee.  The finish is long and lingering, with notes of toffee and cherries. This wine is both  complex and balanced.”

My only issue with this description is that it should include a bunch of expletives pronouncing the spiritual experience you will have upon the first sip.  Yes, choirs of angels, euphoria, and a sense that all is right in the world accompanies each drop.  As we were nearing the end of the bottle, each of us were taking smaller, and smaller sips in the desperate hope we could make it last just a few minutes longer.

In addition to the wonderful flavors (and choirs of angels), the wine makes an unforgettable first impression with the combination of complexity and smoothness as the winemaker promises.  In other words, all the flavors mentioned in the tasting notes are there, but they are all subtle and perfectly in balance.  This wine makes you think; the flavors do not assault you but rather tease you to find them as they play hide-and-seek.

Just a bit ago, when I wrote about “Butternut Squash and Chorizo Empanadas with Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay” I expressed my opinion that while an excellent wine, the Cakebread Chardonnay was over priced at $44.  As evidence that I was not just being cheap, we all concluded that the Ghost Block Cabernet Sauvignon is worth every penny of the $65.

The Pairing

Like the perfectly balanced recipe and the exquisitely balanced wine, the dominant impression of the pairing was also one of perfect symmetry.  None of the flavors from the food nor wine were screaming for attention but rather melded in a wondrous sense of tranquility.  It was akin to old friends meeting in a familiar embrace after a long absence.

I would be very pleased to go on at length about how one aspect of the lamb or cauliflower complemented or contrasted with some aspect of the wine – but I can’t.  This was one of the most congruous and synchronically composed pairings I have ever experienced.  The stunned silence around the table as we began to indulge was clear evidence this is a winner (along with the ooohs, aaahs, and other moans of enchantment).

Final Words

If you have not been to church, temple, ashram, hanging out with Himalayan Monks, mosque, or otherwise have not had a significant spiritual experience in last few weeks, I highly recommend this pairing.  Here are a couple of options; 1) buy the wine and do your best to mimic the description I provided, 2) visit the good folks at Decanting Wine Country, buy the book and skip the recipe guessing (I am not supported or sponsored…just a dedicated foodie), or 3) buy a couple bottles of the wine and a loin of lamb, come to my place and I will gladly do the cooking.

Thanks again to Photo Buddy John for playing guest photographer and thus allowing me to focus on the food and wine.  I encourage you to visit and check out his remarkable photography.

In vino veritas, buen provecho.

Craig

Preview: Lamb and Cauliflower Purée Paired with Ghost Block Cabernet Sauvignon

This is just a short posting to whet your appetite.  Last night we launched back into the Decanting Napa Valley cookbook for our second pairing – lamb and cauliflower purée paired with Ghost Block Cabernet Sauvignon.  This pairing can be easily summed up in the sounds freely flowing around the table last night as we took our first bites and sips.  Oooh.  Aaaaaah.  Wow.  Oh my.  Mmmmmmm.  It seemed that no one was capable of delivering a hard consonant.

The tasting crowd included Chef Sue, Golf Buddy Steve, Photographer Buddy John, and Formerly of Austin Dawn.  Most surprised among the crowd was Formerly of Austin Dawn who does not like lamb, but in this case quickly fell in sync with the oooohs, aaaaahs, and mmmmmms.  But don’t take my word for it.  I ‘m quite sure that Formerly of Austin Dawn will be describing it in her own words.
Check back later this week for all the tasty details.
In vino veritas, buen provecho.
Craig